England and
Europe
Townsend Thoresen Ferry
- Free Enterprise IV
Monday 12th May 1969 Distance travelled 210 miles. (Map 1)
Finally left Dudley at 1105 after a farewell drink at the Safari. Weather was sunny. Land Rover was checked over. On the way through Birmingham picked up some spare wheel nuts from Colliers. Land-Rover going fine. We’ve got a hell of a weight in the back, hope everything keeps going OK.
Made our first stop at M1 motorway café for a snack at 1400. Hadn’t been back on the road half an hour when it started raining. We hadn’t got a map of the road to Dover, we thought it would be well enough sign posted. Well somewhere we missed the turn off for Enfield and managed to get lost. What made it worse was that we were stuck in rush-hour traffic and couldn’t turn around to retrace our steps. Finally found the right road and got through the Dartford Tunnel about 1730. Stopped on the road to buy two plastic funnels for use on the journey (oil and water). Got to the M2 all right and after a good cuppa made good time to Dover and got there about 2000.
Now raining quite hard. We all had a bit of spare English money and we decided to have a slap-up meal before we left. After being refused a meal in one hotel restaurant, probably because they didn’t like our jeans, we found a cosy little steak bar. Had a big rump steak and salad each and then had our last drink of beer in England for a while. We arrived at the docks at 2230 and had a coffee in the rest room. We bought a plastic football at the kiosk, also bought airmail envelopes and paper.
It was still raining as we went through Customs - no trouble although they gave some queer looks at the names on the door. By 2359 we were settled in position on the ferry, and before we went up to the lounge we attached the coloured light deflectors to the headlights. The plastic bag from the stationery had a Union Jack pattern, so it got stuck on the front wing of Land Rover. Surprisingly it stayed there till we made Kandahar.
Finally left Dudley at 1105 after a farewell drink at the Safari. Weather was sunny. Land Rover was checked over. On the way through Birmingham picked up some spare wheel nuts from Colliers. Land-Rover going fine. We’ve got a hell of a weight in the back, hope everything keeps going OK.
Made our first stop at M1 motorway café for a snack at 1400. Hadn’t been back on the road half an hour when it started raining. We hadn’t got a map of the road to Dover, we thought it would be well enough sign posted. Well somewhere we missed the turn off for Enfield and managed to get lost. What made it worse was that we were stuck in rush-hour traffic and couldn’t turn around to retrace our steps. Finally found the right road and got through the Dartford Tunnel about 1730. Stopped on the road to buy two plastic funnels for use on the journey (oil and water). Got to the M2 all right and after a good cuppa made good time to Dover and got there about 2000.
Now raining quite hard. We all had a bit of spare English money and we decided to have a slap-up meal before we left. After being refused a meal in one hotel restaurant, probably because they didn’t like our jeans, we found a cosy little steak bar. Had a big rump steak and salad each and then had our last drink of beer in England for a while. We arrived at the docks at 2230 and had a coffee in the rest room. We bought a plastic football at the kiosk, also bought airmail envelopes and paper.
It was still raining as we went through Customs - no trouble although they gave some queer looks at the names on the door. By 2359 we were settled in position on the ferry, and before we went up to the lounge we attached the coloured light deflectors to the headlights. The plastic bag from the stationery had a Union Jack pattern, so it got stuck on the front wing of Land Rover. Surprisingly it stayed there till we made Kandahar.
Passport stamp on landing in Zeebrugge
Tuesday 13th May Distance travelled 221 miles. (Map 2)
The sea was not too rough, but no one got any sleep. We arrived at Zeebrugge at 0500 and already the sun was up. Within half an hour we were on the road. Driving on the right! For the first few hours it was like driving through ghost towns. Not a soul about. Still it gave us a chance to get used to driving on the wrong side of the road. The countryside was very flat and you could see for miles. We made very good progress on the fast roads, and stopped for a welcome breakfast about 10 miles past Brussels at 0830. Breakfast amounted to eggs, bacon, beans and tomatoes and a cuppa.
We soon discovered that we would have to re-arrange the packing of the rear because we have to remove nearly everything each time we want a cuppa. Back on the road at 1000. At midday we again stopped for a rest near Liege also had a bit of a sunbake, it’s very warm. We were surprised to reach the Belgian-German border at 1315, we didn’t expect it so soon. Got through the border all right and changed some money and had a beer to celebrate. Got underway again at 1400 after enquiring about camping sites.
We got on the autobahn system almost immediately. These roads are really great. The only trouble is we couldn’t camp on them, and they were always away from civilisation. As we got near the Rhine we decided to abandon the autobahns and follow the Rhine down to Stuttgart. Got to the Rhine and started looking for a campsite. Found a good one just out of Bad Godesberg, right on the bank of the river. Brought some lettuce, tomatoes and cheese and had a gorgeous salad for tea. Settled for a good nights ‘kip’ at 2000.
The sea was not too rough, but no one got any sleep. We arrived at Zeebrugge at 0500 and already the sun was up. Within half an hour we were on the road. Driving on the right! For the first few hours it was like driving through ghost towns. Not a soul about. Still it gave us a chance to get used to driving on the wrong side of the road. The countryside was very flat and you could see for miles. We made very good progress on the fast roads, and stopped for a welcome breakfast about 10 miles past Brussels at 0830. Breakfast amounted to eggs, bacon, beans and tomatoes and a cuppa.
We soon discovered that we would have to re-arrange the packing of the rear because we have to remove nearly everything each time we want a cuppa. Back on the road at 1000. At midday we again stopped for a rest near Liege also had a bit of a sunbake, it’s very warm. We were surprised to reach the Belgian-German border at 1315, we didn’t expect it so soon. Got through the border all right and changed some money and had a beer to celebrate. Got underway again at 1400 after enquiring about camping sites.
We got on the autobahn system almost immediately. These roads are really great. The only trouble is we couldn’t camp on them, and they were always away from civilisation. As we got near the Rhine we decided to abandon the autobahns and follow the Rhine down to Stuttgart. Got to the Rhine and started looking for a campsite. Found a good one just out of Bad Godesberg, right on the bank of the river. Brought some lettuce, tomatoes and cheese and had a gorgeous salad for tea. Settled for a good nights ‘kip’ at 2000.
Wednesday 14th May Distance travelled 218 miles. (Map 3)
Woke up at 0800 and had breakfast of Weetabix, bread and butter and tea. Packed the gear up and left the campsite at 0915. Followed the Rhine on another sunny, hot day until 1140 when we stopped for a cuppa. We had only just parked on a large car-park when about six cars towing caravans suddenly surrounded us - gypsies! They seemed very friendly at first but soon they started begging for drinks and a few of the objects we’d collected inside the Land Rover. We departed as quickly as we could and drove through a hot midday finally stopping at Nierstein, again on the banks of the Rhine at about 1330. Had a lunch of bread, cheese and apples and set off again at 1415.
Stopped again at a café near Ludwigshafen. I wasn’t feeling too good, a bit of a headache. Had a cuppa and a couple of Phensic’s. We had a kick-around with the football and felt a lot better. We got back on the road and arrived at Stuttgart camping site in the heart of the city at 2000. Made camp, had a brew-up and went to sleep. The campsite was very well equipped with showers, shop, etc.
Woke up at 0800 and had breakfast of Weetabix, bread and butter and tea. Packed the gear up and left the campsite at 0915. Followed the Rhine on another sunny, hot day until 1140 when we stopped for a cuppa. We had only just parked on a large car-park when about six cars towing caravans suddenly surrounded us - gypsies! They seemed very friendly at first but soon they started begging for drinks and a few of the objects we’d collected inside the Land Rover. We departed as quickly as we could and drove through a hot midday finally stopping at Nierstein, again on the banks of the Rhine at about 1330. Had a lunch of bread, cheese and apples and set off again at 1415.
Stopped again at a café near Ludwigshafen. I wasn’t feeling too good, a bit of a headache. Had a cuppa and a couple of Phensic’s. We had a kick-around with the football and felt a lot better. We got back on the road and arrived at Stuttgart camping site in the heart of the city at 2000. Made camp, had a brew-up and went to sleep. The campsite was very well equipped with showers, shop, etc.
Thursday 15th May Distance travelled 239 miles. (Map 4)
All awake at 0830. Had a shower and wash and after trying to pack the rear of the Land Rover differently we set off at 1030. We went to the main railway station to change some more money. With no Rhine to follow, we got back on to the autobahns, which wasn’t hard to do, they’re everywhere.
We drove until 1315 and then had dinner - salad and were quickly on the way again. We wanted to make the Austrian border if we could today. Stopped at a lay-by for a cup of tea at 1500 after by-passing Munich. While there, a coach-load of German tourists also stopped, and we had 30-40 looking over the Land Rover as if they had never seen one before. Fred was able to speak to some of them in broken German and they were a great laugh. Really cheered us up. Got back on the road at 1600. We’re not far from the border and we thought there was bound to be a camping site just over the border, so we made that our objective. We reached the Austrian border at 2000 and got through OK but to our disappointment there was no campsite or any likelihood of us finding one before it got dark. We travelled on and kept and eye open for any likely places.
Just after passing through Hallein we found a bit of raised ground on the banks of the River Salzach. The ground didn’t look too good but it was out of the way and we decided to make the best of it. Finally got to sleep at 2300 after setting up the tent in the headlights of the Land Rover. Very cold.
All awake at 0830. Had a shower and wash and after trying to pack the rear of the Land Rover differently we set off at 1030. We went to the main railway station to change some more money. With no Rhine to follow, we got back on to the autobahns, which wasn’t hard to do, they’re everywhere.
We drove until 1315 and then had dinner - salad and were quickly on the way again. We wanted to make the Austrian border if we could today. Stopped at a lay-by for a cup of tea at 1500 after by-passing Munich. While there, a coach-load of German tourists also stopped, and we had 30-40 looking over the Land Rover as if they had never seen one before. Fred was able to speak to some of them in broken German and they were a great laugh. Really cheered us up. Got back on the road at 1600. We’re not far from the border and we thought there was bound to be a camping site just over the border, so we made that our objective. We reached the Austrian border at 2000 and got through OK but to our disappointment there was no campsite or any likelihood of us finding one before it got dark. We travelled on and kept and eye open for any likely places.
Just after passing through Hallein we found a bit of raised ground on the banks of the River Salzach. The ground didn’t look too good but it was out of the way and we decided to make the best of it. Finally got to sleep at 2300 after setting up the tent in the headlights of the Land Rover. Very cold.
Friday 16th May Distance travelled 137 miles. (Map 5)
Woke up early at 0700 after a bad nights sleep. The ground was rock hard and we’d all got aches and pains. Got some queer looks from the school kids and workmen on their way to work as they passed us. We broke camp, and had a quick cuppa. We went back to Hallein and changed some money, brought a few provisions and some petrol. We’re living on salads mostly during the day and having a hot stew at night from the food we brought with us.
Stopped for an early dinner at Radstadt at 1100 because we hadn’t had any breakfast. Throughout the day we travelled over the mountains of Austria. Some really breathtaking views and we’re regretting we didn’t bring a camera. Climbed to the snow line and got our first glimpse of ski-lifts and all the palaver that goes with the sport. Roads deteriorated on the mountainous route but the views made up for them.
At 1610 we made Sankt Veit and Sleepy and Fred went to do some shopping. Weather has been great all day. I had a look under the Land Rover, partly because I had nothing else to do more so than real interest in what I was looking at, and spotted that both the rear shock absorbers were leaking. This was probably due to the excess weight we had in the back. Now cursing that we did not get them changed back in England. Looks like buying some new ones if the stories are correct about the bad roads in front of us.
At 1700 we arrived at Klagenfurt and found a great lakeside camping site. They had just cut the grass there so we raked what we could together under the tent for us to sleep on. Much more comfortable. We left the Land Rover at the campsite and had a walk around Klagenfurt. Enquiring at a garage we found there was a Land-Rover agent in the city but they were closed until Monday. We were going to have a rest day tomorrow anyway so we decided to stay the extra day. Kipped down at 2030.
Woke up early at 0700 after a bad nights sleep. The ground was rock hard and we’d all got aches and pains. Got some queer looks from the school kids and workmen on their way to work as they passed us. We broke camp, and had a quick cuppa. We went back to Hallein and changed some money, brought a few provisions and some petrol. We’re living on salads mostly during the day and having a hot stew at night from the food we brought with us.
Stopped for an early dinner at Radstadt at 1100 because we hadn’t had any breakfast. Throughout the day we travelled over the mountains of Austria. Some really breathtaking views and we’re regretting we didn’t bring a camera. Climbed to the snow line and got our first glimpse of ski-lifts and all the palaver that goes with the sport. Roads deteriorated on the mountainous route but the views made up for them.
At 1610 we made Sankt Veit and Sleepy and Fred went to do some shopping. Weather has been great all day. I had a look under the Land Rover, partly because I had nothing else to do more so than real interest in what I was looking at, and spotted that both the rear shock absorbers were leaking. This was probably due to the excess weight we had in the back. Now cursing that we did not get them changed back in England. Looks like buying some new ones if the stories are correct about the bad roads in front of us.
At 1700 we arrived at Klagenfurt and found a great lakeside camping site. They had just cut the grass there so we raked what we could together under the tent for us to sleep on. Much more comfortable. We left the Land Rover at the campsite and had a walk around Klagenfurt. Enquiring at a garage we found there was a Land-Rover agent in the city but they were closed until Monday. We were going to have a rest day tomorrow anyway so we decided to stay the extra day. Kipped down at 2030.
Saturday 17th May Rest day.
Up at 0830 and found that we had no petrol for the stove, so we could not make any tea. We had to make do with cold cucumber sandwiches. To cap it all the weather was cold and uninviting and before long the rain had started but it didn’t last long.
We then all went for a walk around Klagenfurt and got back about 1230 I checked over the nuts on the sump and gearbox and had another look at the shock absorbers. Sleepy cooked us a much indeed meal of mixed country soup and an Irish stew and Fred washed a few clothes out, made good use of the pegs and clothes line.
Weather getting worse, raining again and it continued for the rest of the day, just like being at home again. The tent is standing up well to this weather, we’re not getting wet at all, it’s very cosy. We’re not squashed although movement is limited and undressing before we get in our sleeping bags sometimes creates problems.
Up at 0830 and found that we had no petrol for the stove, so we could not make any tea. We had to make do with cold cucumber sandwiches. To cap it all the weather was cold and uninviting and before long the rain had started but it didn’t last long.
We then all went for a walk around Klagenfurt and got back about 1230 I checked over the nuts on the sump and gearbox and had another look at the shock absorbers. Sleepy cooked us a much indeed meal of mixed country soup and an Irish stew and Fred washed a few clothes out, made good use of the pegs and clothes line.
Weather getting worse, raining again and it continued for the rest of the day, just like being at home again. The tent is standing up well to this weather, we’re not getting wet at all, it’s very cosy. We’re not squashed although movement is limited and undressing before we get in our sleeping bags sometimes creates problems.
Sunday 18th May Rest day.
Woke about 0930 and had a brew-up, wash and general tidy up of things. Went to change some money and brought some food. Weather is a bit better today, sunny but still cool. The campsite is not bad here. We have good showers, toilets, and water taps every 20 yards, and acres of space because this is not yet the season for camping.
Still there are a few people here, mainly Germans. There seems to be more Germans off holidaying than staying in Germany. They are fitness fanatics and already we’ve noticed few of them doing a jog or two around the campsite in the morning. Perhaps they need it to get rid of the beer they drink at night.
The afternoon was a bit brighter and we all managed to get a spot of sunbathing in. After a light tea we went for a walk along the lake and watched a glorious sunset there. Sleepy cut my hair and made and excellent job of it. Fred’s just checked up and found we’ve done 1025 miles so far. We all had a hot and cold shower and then went to bed.
Woke about 0930 and had a brew-up, wash and general tidy up of things. Went to change some money and brought some food. Weather is a bit better today, sunny but still cool. The campsite is not bad here. We have good showers, toilets, and water taps every 20 yards, and acres of space because this is not yet the season for camping.
Still there are a few people here, mainly Germans. There seems to be more Germans off holidaying than staying in Germany. They are fitness fanatics and already we’ve noticed few of them doing a jog or two around the campsite in the morning. Perhaps they need it to get rid of the beer they drink at night.
The afternoon was a bit brighter and we all managed to get a spot of sunbathing in. After a light tea we went for a walk along the lake and watched a glorious sunset there. Sleepy cut my hair and made and excellent job of it. Fred’s just checked up and found we’ve done 1025 miles so far. We all had a hot and cold shower and then went to bed.
Monday 19th May Distance travelled 287 miles. (Map 6)
Woke early and set off about 0800 to the garage to see about the rear shock absorbers, but we got the shock. They had only one shock absorber and they price was 280sh. About £4-10-0! Still we had no alternative but to buy it. They wanted to charge us 100sh.(30/-) to fit it, but we could do it ourselves OK. Went back to the campsite, packed up and paid our debts, bought a bit of food and were back on the road for 0930.
We were not far from the border now and it is situated high up in the mountains with the Austrian border post on one side of the Loibl Pass and the Yugoslav border post on the other. We had a long, steep and sometimes treacherous climb to the border post and it was here we had our first piece of bad luck.
I was driving and approaching the border saw workers repairing the right hand side of the border post and I pulled up on the other side and stopped. There were two cars being checked by officials going in the opposite direction. Thinking I was on the wrong side of the border post I decided to reverse. Meanwhile a small white Fiat had pulled up behind me on my blind side. After looking behind through the door window I thought all was clear and reversed and hit the Fiat. Didn't do much damage to him, denting his bumper and grill with our tow bar.
He turned out to be a very friendly sort of chap and although we couldn’t communicate very well the border guards helped and we finally got everything settled. The other driver had a copy of our Green Card Insurance and he seemed satisfied that he would be paid up with that, don’t know it he ever got it though!
The guards didn’t even search the vehicle and we were allowed to carry on in to the Loibl Tunnel. The tunnel ran for about three miles and on exit at the Yugoslav side we found the rain pouring down. Got through the border O.K, changed some money and brought £4-10-0 worth of petrol coupons (80 Litres).
Woke early and set off about 0800 to the garage to see about the rear shock absorbers, but we got the shock. They had only one shock absorber and they price was 280sh. About £4-10-0! Still we had no alternative but to buy it. They wanted to charge us 100sh.(30/-) to fit it, but we could do it ourselves OK. Went back to the campsite, packed up and paid our debts, bought a bit of food and were back on the road for 0930.
We were not far from the border now and it is situated high up in the mountains with the Austrian border post on one side of the Loibl Pass and the Yugoslav border post on the other. We had a long, steep and sometimes treacherous climb to the border post and it was here we had our first piece of bad luck.
I was driving and approaching the border saw workers repairing the right hand side of the border post and I pulled up on the other side and stopped. There were two cars being checked by officials going in the opposite direction. Thinking I was on the wrong side of the border post I decided to reverse. Meanwhile a small white Fiat had pulled up behind me on my blind side. After looking behind through the door window I thought all was clear and reversed and hit the Fiat. Didn't do much damage to him, denting his bumper and grill with our tow bar.
He turned out to be a very friendly sort of chap and although we couldn’t communicate very well the border guards helped and we finally got everything settled. The other driver had a copy of our Green Card Insurance and he seemed satisfied that he would be paid up with that, don’t know it he ever got it though!
The guards didn’t even search the vehicle and we were allowed to carry on in to the Loibl Tunnel. The tunnel ran for about three miles and on exit at the Yugoslav side we found the rain pouring down. Got through the border O.K, changed some money and brought £4-10-0 worth of petrol coupons (80 Litres).
Loibl Tunnel entrance in Austria. A single lane tunnel was started in 1943 by the Nazis using French POW's from Camp Mauthausen.
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Loibl Tunnel exit in Yugoslavia (now Serbia). The two way tunnel was finished in 1967. It replaced the Loibl Pass over the mountains behind.
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Passport stamp into Yugoslavia at Ljubelj (Loibl)
Roads much better this side of the border, all downhill to Ljubyana and in the town we experienced our first cobblestone streets. The main streets in centre of most towns were tarmac but the outer roads were cobblestone, we found this for the rest of the trip to Istanbul. We made Zagreb in good time, cobbled streets again and at 1635, a few miles past Zagreb we had a brew up.
Moved on towards Belgrade, where we hoped to get our second shock absorber. Rain has not stopped. We found out that you could not camp in Yugoslavia or even pull off the side of the road so we decided to drive through the night.
At about 1830 we came upon a most depression sight. The whole width of the road ahead had potholes, some 12 inches deep and 2 feet wide scattered everywhere. The surface without potholes was cracked up. We proceeded with the utmost caution at about 2 mph, knowing the old shock absorbers were nearly useless and this surface persisted for about 2 miles. At the end of the mess to our amazement we found two cranes with massive iron weights smashing up the surface.
Moved on towards Belgrade, where we hoped to get our second shock absorber. Rain has not stopped. We found out that you could not camp in Yugoslavia or even pull off the side of the road so we decided to drive through the night.
At about 1830 we came upon a most depression sight. The whole width of the road ahead had potholes, some 12 inches deep and 2 feet wide scattered everywhere. The surface without potholes was cracked up. We proceeded with the utmost caution at about 2 mph, knowing the old shock absorbers were nearly useless and this surface persisted for about 2 miles. At the end of the mess to our amazement we found two cranes with massive iron weights smashing up the surface.
Yugoslavian Transit Visa
Apparently the winter had damaged the road and the authorities were laying a completely new surface. But they hadn’t the common sense to do one side of the road at a time. We continued driving and all fell asleep including Dave at the wheel and nearly came to grief on small stubby concrete posts placed every 20 yards along the road. Immediately found the first lay-by and spent a restless night in the Land Rover. Finally dropped off at 2330.
Tuesday 20th May Distance travelled 272 miles. (Map 7)
Stirred at 0430 as it was just getting light and pulled away from the lay-by. A slight drizzle had started. Arrived in Belgrade at 0700, finally parked in the centre and then spent four hours finding another rear shock absorber. We got an even bigger shock here. It cost 216 dinars (£7-2-0). Oh, how we wished we’d changed them back home.
While walking round Belgrade we tried some thick Turkish coffee. Ugh! Thick and sweet but tastes like tripe! We left Belgrade at 1100. The backstreets here have to be seen to be believed. You get 400 yards out of the main shopping area and you’re back on cobblestone streets but these have half the cobbles missing!
Glad to get back on the open road and we stopped for a cheese buttie and a brew at 1320 to try and wash away the taste of that coffee. We moved on to Nis at 1415 and reached there at 1630. After passing through Nis we came to the best scenery to date in Yugoslavia. We were on a road at the base of a ravine next to a raging river. Plenty of small twisting tunnels in the cliff face made it an exciting drive.
After that we kept an eye out for a likely camping site as we could not make the border by nightfall and we didn’t want to drive through the night. We were passing though a small village called Bela Palanka when we spotted a sign indicating a camping site. On investigation we found that it was next to the Hotel Esperanto on top of a steep hill, so steep in fact we had to use four wheel drive to get the Land Rover up to it! It was just a patch of ground in front of the hotel, which was only half finished itself. It was cheap and we had the use of the hotel facilities.
Stirred at 0430 as it was just getting light and pulled away from the lay-by. A slight drizzle had started. Arrived in Belgrade at 0700, finally parked in the centre and then spent four hours finding another rear shock absorber. We got an even bigger shock here. It cost 216 dinars (£7-2-0). Oh, how we wished we’d changed them back home.
While walking round Belgrade we tried some thick Turkish coffee. Ugh! Thick and sweet but tastes like tripe! We left Belgrade at 1100. The backstreets here have to be seen to be believed. You get 400 yards out of the main shopping area and you’re back on cobblestone streets but these have half the cobbles missing!
Glad to get back on the open road and we stopped for a cheese buttie and a brew at 1320 to try and wash away the taste of that coffee. We moved on to Nis at 1415 and reached there at 1630. After passing through Nis we came to the best scenery to date in Yugoslavia. We were on a road at the base of a ravine next to a raging river. Plenty of small twisting tunnels in the cliff face made it an exciting drive.
After that we kept an eye out for a likely camping site as we could not make the border by nightfall and we didn’t want to drive through the night. We were passing though a small village called Bela Palanka when we spotted a sign indicating a camping site. On investigation we found that it was next to the Hotel Esperanto on top of a steep hill, so steep in fact we had to use four wheel drive to get the Land Rover up to it! It was just a patch of ground in front of the hotel, which was only half finished itself. It was cheap and we had the use of the hotel facilities.
Hotel Esperanto, Bela Palanka circa 2009. Don't remember much landscaping in our day. No longer functions as a hotel, Used for refugees accommmodation now. Image thanks to commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5716810
We hadn’t bought any food to have an evening meal with and after inspecting the hotels kitchens, very clean, we decided to have a meal at the hotel which cost about 2/6 each. It was called ‘Chevachacha’ and was great. We also had couple bottles of the local vino to wash it down. We all felt a bit tipsy after that small amount.
We decided on an early night because we planned to get through Bulgaria in one day on the morrow. We got to bed all right but didn’t get much sleep. We’d arrived on the day they were celebrating something, we didn’t know what, at the hotel. During the evening masses of Yugoslavs arrived, had a big meal and then started partying. It all ended about one o’clock next morning with a procession from the hotel through the town with a singing crowd headed by an accordion player. Very pleasant to listen to but it didn’t help us to sleep
We decided on an early night because we planned to get through Bulgaria in one day on the morrow. We got to bed all right but didn’t get much sleep. We’d arrived on the day they were celebrating something, we didn’t know what, at the hotel. During the evening masses of Yugoslavs arrived, had a big meal and then started partying. It all ended about one o’clock next morning with a procession from the hotel through the town with a singing crowd headed by an accordion player. Very pleasant to listen to but it didn’t help us to sleep
The view from Hotel Esperanto looking north to the Balkan Mountains. Image thanks to commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5716671
Passport stamp leaving Yugoslavia at Gradina
After a shower at the hotel we departed from Bela Palanka on a not very good road to Pivot. Once through Pivot we were surprised to find ourselves on a dead straight perfect tarmac road. We reached the border at 1130.
Bulgarian Transit Visa with passport stamps entry (at Kalotina) and exit (at Kapitan)
The customs officials were not at all friendly and the police guards looked all over the Land Rover. Changed some more money for petrol coupons and we got under way fast.
We didn’t want to stop in Bulgaria any longer than we had to. At 1400 we stopped for a brew-up on the road to Plovdiv. We pressed on as fast as we could, stopping only at 1800 for some petrol and to check the oil and tyres and water. We reached the border with Turkey at 2115 and the Bulgarian guards seemed a bit friendlier this time. Fred was even playing football with one of the guards, he was a Bobby Charlton fan.
Passport stamp going into Turkey at Kapikule
The Turkish customs chaps were very thorough and went through most of our luggage but we eventually got away by 2215. We were aiming for the B.P.Mocamp in Edirne and as it was pitch black we were worried about finding it. But we pressed on as we couldn’t camp at the border.
Contrary to expectations we found the Mocamp easily enough and we were really surprised at the setup. We had hot showers, toilets, cooking facilities, etc., in an almost empty camp so we could pick our parking spot. All this for 6/6 a night. We had a welcome stew and retired with the tent pitched on long grass. Very comfy.