On the High Seas
Friday 11th July (Map 21)
Got up at 7.30 to find Fred also has an earache so he used some of the drops I got yesterday. My first ever omelette (I just don’t eat cooked eggs) for breakfast and didn’t finish it. We packed all our stuff together. We now have an extra sleeping bag which Malcolm had sold to us for a few rupees. We paid the bill and caught the bus into town heading for the docks.
Got up at 7.30 to find Fred also has an earache so he used some of the drops I got yesterday. My first ever omelette (I just don’t eat cooked eggs) for breakfast and didn’t finish it. We packed all our stuff together. We now have an extra sleeping bag which Malcolm had sold to us for a few rupees. We paid the bill and caught the bus into town heading for the docks.
Passport Stamp leaving India.
We spent two hours getting through customs. First of all the bank clerk there wouldn’t change any money for us, he said the purser would do it when we got on board. We then had to wade through various queues including medical checks, passports, baggage checks and declaration forms to fill in. We had a bit of trouble convincing them that we had put the Land Rover on another ship last week, but we finally cleared it OK and got on board the ‘State of Madras’.
Found our cabins all right and they seem pleasant enough. We’re on ‘C’ deck in a four berth with an American, Scott Bell. Next door we have Malcolm, Graham and Yvonne, Peter and Bronwyn. Don't know what they did with the Austin Gypsy. There doesn’t seem to be many others on our deck, so plenty of showers and toilets to go around.
The Yorks lads could only book on ‘B’ deck, so they were told back in Bombay, and the four of them are divided between two three berth cabins. At the moment Graham (Yorks) and Lufus are stuck down in customs. They’re having the same paperwork problems with their Land Rover we had had.
We had lunch on board of rice, curried fish, chapattis, fruit etc. not bad. We can’t wait to set sail. We had a good look around the ship in the afternoon. There is a large bar and lounge where you can play chess, draughts, cards, etc and also read. The dining room is just below the lounge and also big although it is at the opposite end of the ship from us. The ship has a ‘sports deck’ which is just about big enough for a decent game of darts! Also has a gymnasium but it’s locked at the moment. We’ve heard rumours that there is a cinema on board but we’ve yet to see it.
There’s also a doctor so Fred and I can see about our ears. Graham and Lufus have finally got through after signing their lives away on forms. Most of the cabins are empty. The non-Europeans seem to be travelling ‘deck class’ which is real cheap. They’re kipping down everywhere, strewn about the deck and hatch covers.
Had tea and biscuits at 1600. Not bad, but not enough biscuits. Still if you shout loud enough you get an extra cup. The water on board is not very good – heavily sterilized. Also we have found that the hot water is rationed in the showers. Anyway the beer is supposed to be good. We can get some as soon as the ship leaves port, and this is what we are waiting for.
We finally started to move at 2100. All had a good tea of rice, mince curry, fish, ‘drum stick’ sambar and some lovely ice-cream. I played Ian at chess and managed to win. Bar still hasn’t opened and on enquiry we find it’s not being opened until tomorrow. Malcolm is a smooth talker and he had a word with the purser and got 24 bottles of booze from him. We split it between the twelve of us. I wasn’t feeling too well – roll of the ship - and went to bed early. Fred and Sleep stayed for a bit of a party and had a great time, so they told me in the morning.
Found our cabins all right and they seem pleasant enough. We’re on ‘C’ deck in a four berth with an American, Scott Bell. Next door we have Malcolm, Graham and Yvonne, Peter and Bronwyn. Don't know what they did with the Austin Gypsy. There doesn’t seem to be many others on our deck, so plenty of showers and toilets to go around.
The Yorks lads could only book on ‘B’ deck, so they were told back in Bombay, and the four of them are divided between two three berth cabins. At the moment Graham (Yorks) and Lufus are stuck down in customs. They’re having the same paperwork problems with their Land Rover we had had.
We had lunch on board of rice, curried fish, chapattis, fruit etc. not bad. We can’t wait to set sail. We had a good look around the ship in the afternoon. There is a large bar and lounge where you can play chess, draughts, cards, etc and also read. The dining room is just below the lounge and also big although it is at the opposite end of the ship from us. The ship has a ‘sports deck’ which is just about big enough for a decent game of darts! Also has a gymnasium but it’s locked at the moment. We’ve heard rumours that there is a cinema on board but we’ve yet to see it.
There’s also a doctor so Fred and I can see about our ears. Graham and Lufus have finally got through after signing their lives away on forms. Most of the cabins are empty. The non-Europeans seem to be travelling ‘deck class’ which is real cheap. They’re kipping down everywhere, strewn about the deck and hatch covers.
Had tea and biscuits at 1600. Not bad, but not enough biscuits. Still if you shout loud enough you get an extra cup. The water on board is not very good – heavily sterilized. Also we have found that the hot water is rationed in the showers. Anyway the beer is supposed to be good. We can get some as soon as the ship leaves port, and this is what we are waiting for.
We finally started to move at 2100. All had a good tea of rice, mince curry, fish, ‘drum stick’ sambar and some lovely ice-cream. I played Ian at chess and managed to win. Bar still hasn’t opened and on enquiry we find it’s not being opened until tomorrow. Malcolm is a smooth talker and he had a word with the purser and got 24 bottles of booze from him. We split it between the twelve of us. I wasn’t feeling too well – roll of the ship - and went to bed early. Fred and Sleep stayed for a bit of a party and had a great time, so they told me in the morning.
Passenger Cargo Ship " STATE OF MADRAS " (Shipping Corporation of India Ltd)
Built at Wallsend on the Tyne in 1947 - originally named JALJAWAHAR - Decommisioned and scrapped in 1973.
Built at Wallsend on the Tyne in 1947 - originally named JALJAWAHAR - Decommisioned and scrapped in 1973.
Saturday 12th July
At 0630 the steward came in with coffee which we hastily downed and went back to bed. I got up and was sick and felt a lot better for it. Went for breakfast at 0900. Not bad – and plenty of second helpings as Fred found out to his joy. We played cards in the morning. The ship anchored off Nagapattinam just before lunch and we were approached by dozens of cargo boats loaded with baskets upon baskets of onions.
At 0630 the steward came in with coffee which we hastily downed and went back to bed. I got up and was sick and felt a lot better for it. Went for breakfast at 0900. Not bad – and plenty of second helpings as Fred found out to his joy. We played cards in the morning. The ship anchored off Nagapattinam just before lunch and we were approached by dozens of cargo boats loaded with baskets upon baskets of onions.
A small portion of the Onion Fleet at Nagapattinam Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
From this point on all our meals managed to contain onions some way or other. Dinner was much the same as yesterday. More rice and curry. We found to our dismay that the purser would not change our traveller’s cheques - somewhere along the last voyage someone had diddled him with a traveller’s cheque. Luckily we were able to borrow US$10 off London Graham.
Tea was different – fried fish – not bad. After tea we had some canned Double Diamond which tasted real good. They’re still loading on the onion cargo, so it seems like we’ll be here until morning.
Tea was different – fried fish – not bad. After tea we had some canned Double Diamond which tasted real good. They’re still loading on the onion cargo, so it seems like we’ll be here until morning.
Sunday 13th July
The steward and coffee woke us early again. We all had a good shower and went to breakfast. After breakfast a few passengers boarded from Nagapattinam. Most of them Indian or Asian and again they were travelling ‘deck class’ making conditions even more crowded. Most of the cargo boats have returned to shore and we finally got back on the move at 1330.
Played cards before and after dinner and came away with a profit of US$1.40 so we could afford a can of Double Diamond each. For dinner we had something similar to ‘wiener schnitzel’. Very tasty and we all made pigs of ourselves, glad to get away from the rice for a bit.
Sea getting choppy – Fred went to bed early. Sleepy and I stayed to see the first film – the lounge was converted to a cinema with the addition of projector and screen. The film was called ‘Marmayogi’ in Hindu. Similar to Robin Hood but strung out too much – lasted nearly three hours.
The steward and coffee woke us early again. We all had a good shower and went to breakfast. After breakfast a few passengers boarded from Nagapattinam. Most of them Indian or Asian and again they were travelling ‘deck class’ making conditions even more crowded. Most of the cargo boats have returned to shore and we finally got back on the move at 1330.
Played cards before and after dinner and came away with a profit of US$1.40 so we could afford a can of Double Diamond each. For dinner we had something similar to ‘wiener schnitzel’. Very tasty and we all made pigs of ourselves, glad to get away from the rice for a bit.
Sea getting choppy – Fred went to bed early. Sleepy and I stayed to see the first film – the lounge was converted to a cinema with the addition of projector and screen. The film was called ‘Marmayogi’ in Hindu. Similar to Robin Hood but strung out too much – lasted nearly three hours.
Monday 14th July
Coffee at 0630, watches on 30 minutes, back to sleep. Woke again late for breakfast and we had to rush to get Kellogg’s cornflakes and fried fish. I played cards again during the morning but not for money this time.
Another nothing to do day. Made a trip down to the engine room, shown around by the engineer and finished up the afternoon sun-bathing on deck. Have also been up to the bridge to check that out. After dinner we (the cabin passengers) were invited to the lounge for a few games. The Captain came down and officiated a game of bingo and a horse racing game. We didn’t chance any money – we had precious little anyway. We had a good laugh though and enjoyed it.
Fred went to bed early, still not feeling too well, and he missed a treat. The Captain took the few of us left up to his cabin and we had drinks and eats all free, he was a good story teller and we heard of his various commands, wife and family, and a few of his experiences. Sleep and myself a bit merry by bed-time.
Coffee at 0630, watches on 30 minutes, back to sleep. Woke again late for breakfast and we had to rush to get Kellogg’s cornflakes and fried fish. I played cards again during the morning but not for money this time.
Another nothing to do day. Made a trip down to the engine room, shown around by the engineer and finished up the afternoon sun-bathing on deck. Have also been up to the bridge to check that out. After dinner we (the cabin passengers) were invited to the lounge for a few games. The Captain came down and officiated a game of bingo and a horse racing game. We didn’t chance any money – we had precious little anyway. We had a good laugh though and enjoyed it.
Fred went to bed early, still not feeling too well, and he missed a treat. The Captain took the few of us left up to his cabin and we had drinks and eats all free, he was a good story teller and we heard of his various commands, wife and family, and a few of his experiences. Sleep and myself a bit merry by bed-time.
Tuesday 15th July
Early coffee, a nap, shower and breakfast of rice krispies, pancakes and eggs. Spent some time with Scott and got to know him a bit better. He comes from Massachusetts near Boston and is also travelling the world. He worked on a ship from Gibraltar to North Africa – been all round Europe and now hopes to get a ship from Singapore to Australia.
Another film session, Hindu again proceeded by a documentary on New Delhi. Showed lots of nice places – certainly wasn’t the Delhi we saw. During the main feature the reel ran out with the light still going. Six foot five Bob could reach the beam of light and his ‘dog heads’ etc got rapturous applause from us all.
Early coffee, a nap, shower and breakfast of rice krispies, pancakes and eggs. Spent some time with Scott and got to know him a bit better. He comes from Massachusetts near Boston and is also travelling the world. He worked on a ship from Gibraltar to North Africa – been all round Europe and now hopes to get a ship from Singapore to Australia.
Another film session, Hindu again proceeded by a documentary on New Delhi. Showed lots of nice places – certainly wasn’t the Delhi we saw. During the main feature the reel ran out with the light still going. Six foot five Bob could reach the beam of light and his ‘dog heads’ etc got rapturous applause from us all.
Wednesday 16th July
Coffee again early and the water rationing I mention earlier is really bad now. They have showers on now for about a quarter of an hour and if you miss it you’ve had it till the afternoon. Needless to say we missed it. We were told water would be taken on at Penang. Had another great day sitting playing cards and reading. Afternoon came and still no water on ‘C’ deck so we snuck a shower on ‘B’ deck – hope they don’t spot us.
In the evening we had another Bingo session. The captain didn’t attend this one but we still had a good time. Malcolm and Fred both called a game each. Lasted till 2200, then when all the officers and most of the passengers had gone to bed, we held a ‘mock’ court session. Malcolm was judge, Fred the prosecutor, Graham the defence counsel and Ian the chap in trouble. He was charged with refusing to eat Indian food at breakfast. He was found guilty and banished to his quarters for the rest of the trip.
Coffee again early and the water rationing I mention earlier is really bad now. They have showers on now for about a quarter of an hour and if you miss it you’ve had it till the afternoon. Needless to say we missed it. We were told water would be taken on at Penang. Had another great day sitting playing cards and reading. Afternoon came and still no water on ‘C’ deck so we snuck a shower on ‘B’ deck – hope they don’t spot us.
In the evening we had another Bingo session. The captain didn’t attend this one but we still had a good time. Malcolm and Fred both called a game each. Lasted till 2200, then when all the officers and most of the passengers had gone to bed, we held a ‘mock’ court session. Malcolm was judge, Fred the prosecutor, Graham the defence counsel and Ian the chap in trouble. He was charged with refusing to eat Indian food at breakfast. He was found guilty and banished to his quarters for the rest of the trip.
Passport Landing Pass at Penang.
Thursday, Friday and Saturday 17th, 18th, 19th July
Three more boring days on board finally brought us to Penang, Malaysia on Saturday. It was a welcome break to get off the ship and walk around the town. Very clean – good roads and footpaths. Only trouble was that there were no banks open and the street money changers wouldn’t accept our traveller’s checks, so we still have no money!
Returned to the ship, after an afternoon’s strolling about, for dinner and we finally sailed at midnight.
Three more boring days on board finally brought us to Penang, Malaysia on Saturday. It was a welcome break to get off the ship and walk around the town. Very clean – good roads and footpaths. Only trouble was that there were no banks open and the street money changers wouldn’t accept our traveller’s checks, so we still have no money!
Returned to the ship, after an afternoon’s strolling about, for dinner and we finally sailed at midnight.
Sunday and Monday 20th, 21st July
Two more days on the water and we finally made Singapore. All the way from Penang we were in sight of land and it made a change from sea, sea and more sea. We could also gauge our progress which was piteously slow compared to other ships in the Malacca Strait. Graham reckoned there were problems with the ship’s engines.
Mid-morning on Monday some of us gathered round a portable radio to hear Armstrong set foot on the moon. Finally made Singapore at 1630 Monday afternoon. We anchored offshore and the immigration officers boarded. We didn’t fancy leaving the ship this evening and having to find accommodation so we took our time.
Two more days on the water and we finally made Singapore. All the way from Penang we were in sight of land and it made a change from sea, sea and more sea. We could also gauge our progress which was piteously slow compared to other ships in the Malacca Strait. Graham reckoned there were problems with the ship’s engines.
Mid-morning on Monday some of us gathered round a portable radio to hear Armstrong set foot on the moon. Finally made Singapore at 1630 Monday afternoon. We anchored offshore and the immigration officers boarded. We didn’t fancy leaving the ship this evening and having to find accommodation so we took our time.
Transit Pass for Singapore. These guys didn't muck about. We had three days to get a ticket organised or be deported....
The immigration people were very thorough and wanted to see how much money we had before they let us in. Scott didn’t have a cent but told them he’d got US$200. They confiscated all our passports and said we could pick them up at the Immigration Department when we produced a ticket out of Singapore. This had to be done in a few days or they would deport us, so we had to work fast.
We docked in darkness a few hours later. We asked the captain if we could stay on board the night and he said it was ok. Spent the evening on the docks fascinated by the loading of large tuna fish from the freezers to the hold. We had a wander through the freezers and it was a real experience.
We docked in darkness a few hours later. We asked the captain if we could stay on board the night and he said it was ok. Spent the evening on the docks fascinated by the loading of large tuna fish from the freezers to the hold. We had a wander through the freezers and it was a real experience.