Pakistan and India
Passport stamp at Torkham, entry to Pakistan.
Thursday 19th June Distance travelled 162 miles. (Map 17)
Awoke after a restless night. There was a warm breeze blowing all night and nobody got much sleep. Warm when we got up and getting warmer. Had a look at the river, very murky in the middle. We found a slow moving part and got in for a swim. It was freezing but well worth it. Another cuppa to warm us up (as if we need warming up) and we got under way.
Just before the border at Jalabad we stopped for a ‘coke’ and to buy some vegetables. We passed through the Afghan - Pakistan customs at about 1100, added half an hour to our watches and finally left the Torkham border control heading for the fabled Khyber Pass. We're back to driving on the left again. The village of Landi Kotal is the last bit of civilisation at the western end of the Pass.
Awoke after a restless night. There was a warm breeze blowing all night and nobody got much sleep. Warm when we got up and getting warmer. Had a look at the river, very murky in the middle. We found a slow moving part and got in for a swim. It was freezing but well worth it. Another cuppa to warm us up (as if we need warming up) and we got under way.
Just before the border at Jalabad we stopped for a ‘coke’ and to buy some vegetables. We passed through the Afghan - Pakistan customs at about 1100, added half an hour to our watches and finally left the Torkham border control heading for the fabled Khyber Pass. We're back to driving on the left again. The village of Landi Kotal is the last bit of civilisation at the western end of the Pass.
We stopped half way through the Pass for the Yorks lads to take some photos at the Memorial to the Khyber Rifles. Very barren and weather beaten hills with most of the old fortresses still standing.
The Khyber Pass photo shoot - (l to r) Graham, Fred, Ian, Lufus, Len, Dave and Bob. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Insignia plaques of Colonial Regimental Units that served on the Northwest Frontier. Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas.
Our version of the classic picture that everybody takes looking down the Khyber Pass. Check out "Goggle Images" to see hundreds of them. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Here's another view further down to the Plain Of Pakistan. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Baab-e-Khyber (Khyber Gate) marks the eastern end of the Khyber Pass as you enter the town of Jamrud.
After the Pass we drove down to the Plain of Pakistan. Now getting very hot and humid. Temperature around 100°F. Fred not too well. Thinks he’s got tonsilitis but probably just the usual trouble everybody has in India and Pakistan due to the bad water.
From here to Bombay we stayed nights at rest houses (or dak bungalows). These were government houses – very cheap for tourists. We reached one at Attock by the River Indus. Not a bad place. We all kipped on the veranda but had to pay for one room (2/6 for the seven of us). The room had fans but it was cooler outside. Only trouble was that there was no running water. Chap in charge gave us some drinking water, which looked very murky but tasted clean and fresh. We asked him where he got the water from. He told us it comes straight from the River Indus and is then let stand in large earthenware pots for a few days and it’s really terrific. Ian wouldn’t touch it but nobody else seemed to refuse.
After tea of potatoes, onions, soup and corned beef, Fred, Sleepy, Bob and Lufus went for a dip in the Indus. I wasn’t feeling so energetic so I stayed put. Still very humid and we were told that it got up to 115°F during the day.
From here to Bombay we stayed nights at rest houses (or dak bungalows). These were government houses – very cheap for tourists. We reached one at Attock by the River Indus. Not a bad place. We all kipped on the veranda but had to pay for one room (2/6 for the seven of us). The room had fans but it was cooler outside. Only trouble was that there was no running water. Chap in charge gave us some drinking water, which looked very murky but tasted clean and fresh. We asked him where he got the water from. He told us it comes straight from the River Indus and is then let stand in large earthenware pots for a few days and it’s really terrific. Ian wouldn’t touch it but nobody else seemed to refuse.
After tea of potatoes, onions, soup and corned beef, Fred, Sleepy, Bob and Lufus went for a dip in the Indus. I wasn’t feeling so energetic so I stayed put. Still very humid and we were told that it got up to 115°F during the day.
Friday 20th June Distance travelled 234 miles. (Map 17)
Woke early at 0530 after a very humid night. Everyone had slept on the veranda, and quite warm even at this hour so we all trooped down to the river and had a wash and bathe. River was cool and refreshing. We had a few cups of coffee while the Yorks lads made their breakfast. Fred was bad again during the night – sick a few times but he’s feeling a little better today.
We were packed and on the road by 0730. Very warm now and getting hotter. We reached Rawalpindi by 1000 and stopped to change some money and grab a ‘coke’. Didn’t get enough from the moneychangers in Kabul.
Back on the road again and stayed there until 1345 when we reached Jhelum. A very large river here and we’re all dying for a swim. Parked about 200 yards from the river, we couldn’t get any closer with the motors. We sprinted to the water, it was too hot to walk.
The river was flowing very fast and not good for swimming. All we could do was walk upstream, dive in and float down. When we first got there a herd of water buffaloes were being washed and refreshed in a small inlet. After they left we sat in the water where they had been and it was wonderful. Shallow with a sandy bottom and hardly any current.
We stayed there wallowing and sunbathing the best part of the afternoon. There was a cold water pump nearby that we used to sit under in turn. We needed it – the temperature was sure to be 120°F.
We restarted about 1800 and headed for Lahore. The Yorkshire lads had the AA maps for the route to Bombay and the information showed a rest house just before Lahore at Shahdara. We got to Shahdara at 2000 but couldn’t find any rest bungalow. The task was made harder because it was dark. We decide to push on to Lahore and find something there. Just before Lahore we met a toll stop for a large bridge (not mentioned in the AA guide) at the Ravi river. Expensive too as Pakistan goes (1 Rupee = 2/-)
Made Lahore and asked at a garage if there were any rest houses, etc. we were directed to the YMCA. Got there to find the place locked up. Chap outside said they were full up but the warden would be back soon. An hour later the warden arrived and he told us we could stay for 3 and a half Rupees each!! – and that just for a room. He also mentioned that lots of people slept in the city parks and the police didn’t mind. Wasn’t hard to decide what we were going to do and we headed of in the direction he showed us.
Finally found a bit of spare ground just outside of the Zoological Gardens. Sleepy and I had soup, beans and stewed steak. Fred just had coffee, he still feeling offish.
Woke early at 0530 after a very humid night. Everyone had slept on the veranda, and quite warm even at this hour so we all trooped down to the river and had a wash and bathe. River was cool and refreshing. We had a few cups of coffee while the Yorks lads made their breakfast. Fred was bad again during the night – sick a few times but he’s feeling a little better today.
We were packed and on the road by 0730. Very warm now and getting hotter. We reached Rawalpindi by 1000 and stopped to change some money and grab a ‘coke’. Didn’t get enough from the moneychangers in Kabul.
Back on the road again and stayed there until 1345 when we reached Jhelum. A very large river here and we’re all dying for a swim. Parked about 200 yards from the river, we couldn’t get any closer with the motors. We sprinted to the water, it was too hot to walk.
The river was flowing very fast and not good for swimming. All we could do was walk upstream, dive in and float down. When we first got there a herd of water buffaloes were being washed and refreshed in a small inlet. After they left we sat in the water where they had been and it was wonderful. Shallow with a sandy bottom and hardly any current.
We stayed there wallowing and sunbathing the best part of the afternoon. There was a cold water pump nearby that we used to sit under in turn. We needed it – the temperature was sure to be 120°F.
We restarted about 1800 and headed for Lahore. The Yorkshire lads had the AA maps for the route to Bombay and the information showed a rest house just before Lahore at Shahdara. We got to Shahdara at 2000 but couldn’t find any rest bungalow. The task was made harder because it was dark. We decide to push on to Lahore and find something there. Just before Lahore we met a toll stop for a large bridge (not mentioned in the AA guide) at the Ravi river. Expensive too as Pakistan goes (1 Rupee = 2/-)
Made Lahore and asked at a garage if there were any rest houses, etc. we were directed to the YMCA. Got there to find the place locked up. Chap outside said they were full up but the warden would be back soon. An hour later the warden arrived and he told us we could stay for 3 and a half Rupees each!! – and that just for a room. He also mentioned that lots of people slept in the city parks and the police didn’t mind. Wasn’t hard to decide what we were going to do and we headed of in the direction he showed us.
Finally found a bit of spare ground just outside of the Zoological Gardens. Sleepy and I had soup, beans and stewed steak. Fred just had coffee, he still feeling offish.
Passport Stamp on exit from Pakistan at Ganda Singh Wala.
Saturday 21st June Distance travelled 133 miles. (Map 18)
Up at 0530, cloudy sky, and found we were on part of a rubbish dump, but we had toilets right next to us and a cold water tap which is all we want right now. At 0600 we were surprised by a rainstorm and we all got soaked. It lasted for 15 minutes and all it did was clear the clouds and we knew we were in for a hot one again.
We started off at 0800 and went to the Indian Secretariat and after a great deal of red tape we finally got our road passes. Reached the Pakistan border at 1120. The customs chappie made us unpack everything including George Lucas’ parcel. He was after drugs, a very serious offence here. It took a lot of convincing him that the box shape under our driving seat was in fact our fuel tank and couldn’t be opened!
Up at 0530, cloudy sky, and found we were on part of a rubbish dump, but we had toilets right next to us and a cold water tap which is all we want right now. At 0600 we were surprised by a rainstorm and we all got soaked. It lasted for 15 minutes and all it did was clear the clouds and we knew we were in for a hot one again.
We started off at 0800 and went to the Indian Secretariat and after a great deal of red tape we finally got our road passes. Reached the Pakistan border at 1120. The customs chappie made us unpack everything including George Lucas’ parcel. He was after drugs, a very serious offence here. It took a lot of convincing him that the box shape under our driving seat was in fact our fuel tank and couldn’t be opened!
Passport Stamp on entry to India at Hussainiwala.
A further eight miles brought us to the Indian control post. Procedures here happened very slowly, but no one was rushing and for good reason. It’s humid outside the buildings and over 120°F. You can’t feel the heat or humidity as much if you don’t move, but if you run ten yards you’re puffing and blowing like you’d just done a mile.
We got a lecture from the customs chap on drugs, firearms, etc. but we didn’t get body searched. Finally left the border at 1430 and stopped a few minutes later for a bite to eat and a bit of a kip. Back on the road at 1700 and we made Ludhiana at 2030. We found the dak bungalow OK and met a fabulous old Indian fella. He’d been to Britain and spoke good English. He’s very talkative and good natured. He said the chap in charge had gone home and if we leave early in the morning we should get away with out paying.
We decided to celebrate making it to our last country so Lufus and Bob went to get some beer. It’s expensive – 4 Rupees a bottle (about 5/-) But now we’ve got beer and cold water, what more could you ask for? Perhaps a cooler day tomorrow. No such luck.They arrived back with the beer and a bucket of ice to keep it cool. It tasted a bit off but what can you expect when you’re eating beans at the same time? Everybody had a good shower before we went to bed.
We got a lecture from the customs chap on drugs, firearms, etc. but we didn’t get body searched. Finally left the border at 1430 and stopped a few minutes later for a bite to eat and a bit of a kip. Back on the road at 1700 and we made Ludhiana at 2030. We found the dak bungalow OK and met a fabulous old Indian fella. He’d been to Britain and spoke good English. He’s very talkative and good natured. He said the chap in charge had gone home and if we leave early in the morning we should get away with out paying.
We decided to celebrate making it to our last country so Lufus and Bob went to get some beer. It’s expensive – 4 Rupees a bottle (about 5/-) But now we’ve got beer and cold water, what more could you ask for? Perhaps a cooler day tomorrow. No such luck.They arrived back with the beer and a bucket of ice to keep it cool. It tasted a bit off but what can you expect when you’re eating beans at the same time? Everybody had a good shower before we went to bed.
Sunday 22nd June Distance travelled 250 miles. (Map 18)
I woke real early. Fred and I had been restless during the night, too warm. We found that the showers had been turned off – time switch. So we went to the coldwater pump in the back yard and took turns sitting and lying under it for nearly half an hour. All this at 3.30 in the morning. Sleepy didn’t bat an eyelid all night as usual.
We decided to press on without the others this morning – going to meet them on the road later. There’s only one road so we can’t miss each other. Left for Delhi at 0625. Today is much more pleasant, cooler and fresher. Fred is now feeling much better. Every hour and a half we stop for cokes which are cheap and refreshing. We arrived at Delhi and met up with the other lads at the GPO where they had some letters from their parents.
We didn’t see any of New Delhi, all we saw were the slums and terrible poverty of the Old Delhi. It really is tear jerking – the squalor. At the GPO we met an Indian chap who could speak very good English. He offered to show us the Agra road out of Delhi as he lived out that way.
He was happy to get the lift and as it turned out we were glad to have him. He was in the Yorks motor travelling in front of us. We followed the lads onto a large traffic island, moving slowly, when a timber lorry in front of them decided to reverse. Probably missed his turn-off. He rammed into their Land Rover crumpling the bonnet and pushing them back into us. We didn’t kop any damage but the Yorks boys lost a reversing light to add to the front end damage. Within minutes we were surrounded by hundreds of Indians milling around. The English speaking Indian took our part and had a few words and more with the lorry driver.
We had our own battles trying to keep unwelcome hands and arms out of both the vehicles. The lorry moved off to the side of the road and we followed. A few moments later the lorry sped off. Sleepy, Bob and myself set off in pursuit in our Land Rover and caught up with the truck after a couple of miles. His timber load had slowed him down. With some threatening gestures from the six-foot five Irishman Bob, he pulled over and we parked the Rover to stop him moving.
I hailed a scooter taxi and went back to the other boys and we all returned to front the lorry driver. After a heated discussion, mainly again due to our Indian friend, the driver coughed up 30 Rupees (about £6). Doesn’t sound a lot but to the driver probably a month’s wage. We didn’t hang around anyway. We’d realised that we weren’t insured and it was a good job the police hadn’t appeared.
We dropped the Indian chap where he wanted to go, (with our thanks) and got back to the Agra road. Stopped half an hour later for cokes and sandwiches only to find that Graham had lost his wallet. In it was £30 in US dollars, and he probably had it pinched in the crowd after the accident.
We all got on the move again and looked for a rest bungalow. The Yorks lads were ahead of us and they’d missed the sign for the bungalow. We stopped, but moved on when we found there wasn’t running water or electricity and the chap wanted 3 Rupees of each of us. Found another dak bungalow at Hodel and decide to stay. No one else here but the doors were open. Fred had been lying under the shower for ten minutes when the chap in charge arrived. We got one large room for 5 Rupees and a shower, an English toilet, wash basin, etc.
We’ve had a long and eventful day and we were glad of the clean room.
Note on the roads in India:
All the way from the border to Delhi we had good two lane tarmac. After Dehli the tarmac reduced to wide enough for one vehicle. Many dangers on the road including people, cows, ox-carts, and lorries! The lorry drivers play chicken with you forcing you on to the dirt beside the tarmac. But we’ve found a solution – the lorry drivers give over to other lorry drivers, which means both of them get half way off the road when they pass. So if we travel close behind a lorry when we can, we can usually stay on the road when they pass another lorry.
Having said that we’ve heard some lurid tales of foreigner’s treatment when involved in people accidents so we take particular care through villages.
I woke real early. Fred and I had been restless during the night, too warm. We found that the showers had been turned off – time switch. So we went to the coldwater pump in the back yard and took turns sitting and lying under it for nearly half an hour. All this at 3.30 in the morning. Sleepy didn’t bat an eyelid all night as usual.
We decided to press on without the others this morning – going to meet them on the road later. There’s only one road so we can’t miss each other. Left for Delhi at 0625. Today is much more pleasant, cooler and fresher. Fred is now feeling much better. Every hour and a half we stop for cokes which are cheap and refreshing. We arrived at Delhi and met up with the other lads at the GPO where they had some letters from their parents.
We didn’t see any of New Delhi, all we saw were the slums and terrible poverty of the Old Delhi. It really is tear jerking – the squalor. At the GPO we met an Indian chap who could speak very good English. He offered to show us the Agra road out of Delhi as he lived out that way.
He was happy to get the lift and as it turned out we were glad to have him. He was in the Yorks motor travelling in front of us. We followed the lads onto a large traffic island, moving slowly, when a timber lorry in front of them decided to reverse. Probably missed his turn-off. He rammed into their Land Rover crumpling the bonnet and pushing them back into us. We didn’t kop any damage but the Yorks boys lost a reversing light to add to the front end damage. Within minutes we were surrounded by hundreds of Indians milling around. The English speaking Indian took our part and had a few words and more with the lorry driver.
We had our own battles trying to keep unwelcome hands and arms out of both the vehicles. The lorry moved off to the side of the road and we followed. A few moments later the lorry sped off. Sleepy, Bob and myself set off in pursuit in our Land Rover and caught up with the truck after a couple of miles. His timber load had slowed him down. With some threatening gestures from the six-foot five Irishman Bob, he pulled over and we parked the Rover to stop him moving.
I hailed a scooter taxi and went back to the other boys and we all returned to front the lorry driver. After a heated discussion, mainly again due to our Indian friend, the driver coughed up 30 Rupees (about £6). Doesn’t sound a lot but to the driver probably a month’s wage. We didn’t hang around anyway. We’d realised that we weren’t insured and it was a good job the police hadn’t appeared.
We dropped the Indian chap where he wanted to go, (with our thanks) and got back to the Agra road. Stopped half an hour later for cokes and sandwiches only to find that Graham had lost his wallet. In it was £30 in US dollars, and he probably had it pinched in the crowd after the accident.
We all got on the move again and looked for a rest bungalow. The Yorks lads were ahead of us and they’d missed the sign for the bungalow. We stopped, but moved on when we found there wasn’t running water or electricity and the chap wanted 3 Rupees of each of us. Found another dak bungalow at Hodel and decide to stay. No one else here but the doors were open. Fred had been lying under the shower for ten minutes when the chap in charge arrived. We got one large room for 5 Rupees and a shower, an English toilet, wash basin, etc.
We’ve had a long and eventful day and we were glad of the clean room.
Note on the roads in India:
All the way from the border to Delhi we had good two lane tarmac. After Dehli the tarmac reduced to wide enough for one vehicle. Many dangers on the road including people, cows, ox-carts, and lorries! The lorry drivers play chicken with you forcing you on to the dirt beside the tarmac. But we’ve found a solution – the lorry drivers give over to other lorry drivers, which means both of them get half way off the road when they pass. So if we travel close behind a lorry when we can, we can usually stay on the road when they pass another lorry.
Having said that we’ve heard some lurid tales of foreigner’s treatment when involved in people accidents so we take particular care through villages.
Monday 23rd June Distance travelled 229 miles. (Map 19)
We had lost the other Land Rover last night when we stopped at the first rest bungalow. We hadn’t seen them since, but hoped they had found a place as good as ours. We were up early again after a restless night – too hot again. Fred spent most of the early hours in the water tank on the roof. But even that water was warm.
I razored my hair, we all had a shower and a fresh change of clothes before we moved off. At 0930 we sighted the other Land Rover just before Agra and stopped for a coke. We had decided to visit the Taj Mahal today. We stopped at the Tourist Information Bureau in Agra and got some information on Bombay and other rest houses. We pressed on for the Taj Mahal.
Don't really know what we expected. Outside the Taj Mahal was a large car park where we left the Land Rovers. The place was deserted. We paid the entry fee and were shown through a large domed hall, which led out to the gardens of the Taj Palace. They were not as large as you think from the photos you’ve seen. The Taj Mahal was at the far end of the garden ponds which had a bit of rubbish in them. The walkways were marble paved in intricate patterns. The Taj Mahal was built completely of white marble and intertwining figures and flowers were everywhere. Had a good look round but we were soon fed up with it. We made our way back, stopped to sign the visitor’s book and had a sandwich at the restaurant in the park. We were all exhausted from walking in the heat of midday. We had a bit of a rest and an ice cream.
We had lost the other Land Rover last night when we stopped at the first rest bungalow. We hadn’t seen them since, but hoped they had found a place as good as ours. We were up early again after a restless night – too hot again. Fred spent most of the early hours in the water tank on the roof. But even that water was warm.
I razored my hair, we all had a shower and a fresh change of clothes before we moved off. At 0930 we sighted the other Land Rover just before Agra and stopped for a coke. We had decided to visit the Taj Mahal today. We stopped at the Tourist Information Bureau in Agra and got some information on Bombay and other rest houses. We pressed on for the Taj Mahal.
Don't really know what we expected. Outside the Taj Mahal was a large car park where we left the Land Rovers. The place was deserted. We paid the entry fee and were shown through a large domed hall, which led out to the gardens of the Taj Palace. They were not as large as you think from the photos you’ve seen. The Taj Mahal was at the far end of the garden ponds which had a bit of rubbish in them. The walkways were marble paved in intricate patterns. The Taj Mahal was built completely of white marble and intertwining figures and flowers were everywhere. Had a good look round but we were soon fed up with it. We made our way back, stopped to sign the visitor’s book and had a sandwich at the restaurant in the park. We were all exhausted from walking in the heat of midday. We had a bit of a rest and an ice cream.
Graham's version of the Iconic shot of this "World Wonder". I don't think we really apprecaited what we were seeing. Very hazy and muggy day. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
The view looking back to the Great Gate entry to the Taj Gardens. That's Bob and Lufus giving us a wave.
Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Finally got back on the road at 1615 and travelled to Shivpur dak bungalow, stopping several times for cokes on the way. We had two connecting rooms for about 6/- the lot. We had no shower but plenty of cold water.
The Dak Bungalow at Shivpur. We used these in India - clean, safe and cheap accommodation for tourists. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Tuesday 24th June Distance travelled 270 miles. (Map 19)
Much cooler last night and as a result everybody got a good night’s sleep. We wanted to make Indore tonight so we made an early start. The sky is much clearer today and the heat is a dry heat, better than the humidity we’ve had the last few days. We pressed on steadily, not pushing the Land Rover too hard, knowing we’re nearly at our goal.
Much cooler last night and as a result everybody got a good night’s sleep. We wanted to make Indore tonight so we made an early start. The sky is much clearer today and the heat is a dry heat, better than the humidity we’ve had the last few days. We pressed on steadily, not pushing the Land Rover too hard, knowing we’re nearly at our goal.
Mahout-in-training Graham gets a taste of one of the local transport options. Things you do for photo. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
We reached Indore at 1600 only to find the dak bungalow was full – unusual really as we never met anybody else at these bungalows. It stared raining and we mucked about in Indore looking for an ‘Inspection’ bungalow only to find it was part of the Army Barracks. Decided to push on.
At 1830 we found a bungalow 20 miles out of Indore. No electricity, but it was a roof over our heads and we didn’t grumble. We’d just made our tea and got settled when if poured with rain for half an hour solid. The Yorks lads found they hadn’t got enough fuel to last to the next gas station so we offered to get some from Indore for them. Graham came with me and we collected 5 gallons of diesel for them and some for ourselves. Got lost on the way back and took an hour for what should have been a ten minute ride. Finally made it and bedded down for the night.
At 1830 we found a bungalow 20 miles out of Indore. No electricity, but it was a roof over our heads and we didn’t grumble. We’d just made our tea and got settled when if poured with rain for half an hour solid. The Yorks lads found they hadn’t got enough fuel to last to the next gas station so we offered to get some from Indore for them. Graham came with me and we collected 5 gallons of diesel for them and some for ourselves. Got lost on the way back and took an hour for what should have been a ten minute ride. Finally made it and bedded down for the night.
Wednesday 25th June Distance travelled 257 miles. (Map 20)
Everybody had another good night’s sleep. Set off at 0730 in cool weather. Monsoons have begun. Again took it easy on the road stopping three or four times for 'cokes' at roadside stores.
With our load in the back gradually reducing we have now made room for one of us travelling in there. This gives everyone a chance to stretch out. We’re sorry now we didn’t think of this before. Only trouble being there is having to contend with the dust and you don’t get any warning of the bumps. During the afternoon it rained heavily and I got a soaking in the back not pulling the canvas down quick enough.
At 1630 we reached a small rest house high on a hill overlooking two large reservoirs. Only a small room this time but it’s still warm enough to stay outside. Had a good meal and extra of everything as this would be our last night before reaching Bombay. We’re now only 95 miles away at a place called Nasik. Went to bed to for another good night’s rest.
Everybody had another good night’s sleep. Set off at 0730 in cool weather. Monsoons have begun. Again took it easy on the road stopping three or four times for 'cokes' at roadside stores.
With our load in the back gradually reducing we have now made room for one of us travelling in there. This gives everyone a chance to stretch out. We’re sorry now we didn’t think of this before. Only trouble being there is having to contend with the dust and you don’t get any warning of the bumps. During the afternoon it rained heavily and I got a soaking in the back not pulling the canvas down quick enough.
At 1630 we reached a small rest house high on a hill overlooking two large reservoirs. Only a small room this time but it’s still warm enough to stay outside. Had a good meal and extra of everything as this would be our last night before reaching Bombay. We’re now only 95 miles away at a place called Nasik. Went to bed to for another good night’s rest.
Thursday 26th June Distance travelled 100 miles. (Map 20)
This is the day we’ve waited a long time for. The Land Rover’s work is almost done. We arose at 0630 and had a good wash, put on fresh clothes, and had a good cuppa.
After a few hot hours driving we reached the outskirts of Bombay at 1100. Before we left England we had sourced some of the shipping agents in Bombay, one of which we'd arranged as a mailing address for our families to use. It took us an hour to find them, BI (British India Steam Navigation) agents of Mackinnon and Mackenzie. Had a good talk to an English chap working there (Mr Farlie) and collected some letters from home. We then tried to get into the Salvation Army (Red Shield House) in the Fort district near the main docks, but they said it was full up.
This is the day we’ve waited a long time for. The Land Rover’s work is almost done. We arose at 0630 and had a good wash, put on fresh clothes, and had a good cuppa.
After a few hot hours driving we reached the outskirts of Bombay at 1100. Before we left England we had sourced some of the shipping agents in Bombay, one of which we'd arranged as a mailing address for our families to use. It took us an hour to find them, BI (British India Steam Navigation) agents of Mackinnon and Mackenzie. Had a good talk to an English chap working there (Mr Farlie) and collected some letters from home. We then tried to get into the Salvation Army (Red Shield House) in the Fort district near the main docks, but they said it was full up.
Our first glimpse of the Bombay waterfront. After the initial knockback from the Salvo's Hostel we parked out on the "esplanade" for a cuppa.
It was here we made contact with our friendly Indian. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
View south on the "esplanade" with the Taj Mahal Palace, Gate of India monument and the Fort docks in the distance. Both the Sea Shore Hotel and the Salvo's Hostel were a few streets back from the water. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
We met an Indian who became friendly and we nicknamed him Sam. He said he was sort of a guide but never charged us anything for showing us around. He told us of another hotel near the docks. It looks a right dive from the outside but it’s quite pleasant inside with showers etc. even though it’s four stories up.
In the afternoon we went to another shipping agent Forbes, Forbes and Campbell (agents for Royal Inter Oceans Line). Unfortunately they had heard nothing from our contact back in England. They said that they would transport the Land Rover OK to Australia but that passenger ships and berths on cargo ships were booked months ahead.
We got back to the hotel, (Sea Shore Hotel), and booked in (Sam was probably getting a kickback from them). There’s three of us are in one room and it is costing 7/- each, per night and comes with breakfast included. Sam is bringing a chap who wants to buy some of our stuff. He came but offered a ridiculous price so we got rid of him and hit the sack early.
In the afternoon we went to another shipping agent Forbes, Forbes and Campbell (agents for Royal Inter Oceans Line). Unfortunately they had heard nothing from our contact back in England. They said that they would transport the Land Rover OK to Australia but that passenger ships and berths on cargo ships were booked months ahead.
We got back to the hotel, (Sea Shore Hotel), and booked in (Sam was probably getting a kickback from them). There’s three of us are in one room and it is costing 7/- each, per night and comes with breakfast included. Sam is bringing a chap who wants to buy some of our stuff. He came but offered a ridiculous price so we got rid of him and hit the sack early.