Turkey
Thursday 22nd May Distance travelled 148 miles. (Map 9)
Out of bed at 0745 and had breakfast and a shower. Sleepy and I then replaced the rear shock absorbers - dead easy - while Fred tried to do something about the wire netting in the roof section of the canvas hood which had given away after sagging for some days. We eventually cut all the top of it away and tied the coats etc. to the side frame. We got rid of a lot of rubbish we didn’t need. Repacked the spares and the medical stuff in the back which was now a good deal lighter.
Finally got under way at 1300 to arrange some insurance of the car. A chap at the Mocamp had been very helpful and told us where to go in Edirne. We found the place OK and got insurance for a month, cost 25/-. Filled up with petrol, we set off for Istanbul. Road had a very good surface although sometimes very steep and winding. Nearer to Istanbul along the coastline the road was unprotected and the windy conditions made driving treacherous.
Made the Istanbul Mocamp at 1835. It was packed, we managed to squeeze in between two campers and we found the same facilities as Edirne. Here they also had a swimming pool, not very big, despite what the picture in the brochure shows. We didn’t like this camp as much as Edirne probably because everybody was using the facilities and there was not enough of them to go round. Finally hit the sack as dark clouds descended and we expected rain but we didn’t get it till next day.
Out of bed at 0745 and had breakfast and a shower. Sleepy and I then replaced the rear shock absorbers - dead easy - while Fred tried to do something about the wire netting in the roof section of the canvas hood which had given away after sagging for some days. We eventually cut all the top of it away and tied the coats etc. to the side frame. We got rid of a lot of rubbish we didn’t need. Repacked the spares and the medical stuff in the back which was now a good deal lighter.
Finally got under way at 1300 to arrange some insurance of the car. A chap at the Mocamp had been very helpful and told us where to go in Edirne. We found the place OK and got insurance for a month, cost 25/-. Filled up with petrol, we set off for Istanbul. Road had a very good surface although sometimes very steep and winding. Nearer to Istanbul along the coastline the road was unprotected and the windy conditions made driving treacherous.
Made the Istanbul Mocamp at 1835. It was packed, we managed to squeeze in between two campers and we found the same facilities as Edirne. Here they also had a swimming pool, not very big, despite what the picture in the brochure shows. We didn’t like this camp as much as Edirne probably because everybody was using the facilities and there was not enough of them to go round. Finally hit the sack as dark clouds descended and we expected rain but we didn’t get it till next day.
Friday 23rd May Distance travelled 282 miles. (Map 10)
We’d heard a lot about the mad drivers of Istanbul and we got up at 0630 to try and miss them and the morning rush hour. We were away by 0700 and finally reached the ferry across the Bosphorus Strait at 0755. These Turkish drivers really are mad. Everybody uses his horn instead of his head! Got across the Bosphorus OK and for a few miles the traffic was just as bad but we made it unscathed.
We’d heard a lot about the mad drivers of Istanbul and we got up at 0630 to try and miss them and the morning rush hour. We were away by 0700 and finally reached the ferry across the Bosphorus Strait at 0755. These Turkish drivers really are mad. Everybody uses his horn instead of his head! Got across the Bosphorus OK and for a few miles the traffic was just as bad but we made it unscathed.
Ferries of all sizes crossing the Bosphorus strait - just slightly safer than the roads. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
The only way over the Bosphorus in 1969 was by ferry (building of the first bridge was started the year after we were there).
Loading the vehicle ferry to get across the Bosphorus.
Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas, one of two guys travelling in the Fiat 600 Multipla shown here. Check out my 'Acknowledgements' page for the link to his Flickr photos album. These guys were heading in the opposite direction to us in 1969, and after having discussions with Bruce in 2017 it appears that it's more than likely that we were actually in the Istanbul Mocamp on the same day.
We drove until noon and stopped for some petrol where upon it started to rain. We continued on our way with the sky still overcast with rain, just like being back home! At 1445 we stopped for a cuppa and the weather was looking a bit brighter. Good roads all the way to Ankara and we reached the Susuzkoy Mocamp at 1720.
This Mocamp was also empty but the ground was not very good. Under threatening skies we had a good meal of soup, and steak and kidney pies and coffee. Thunderstorm breaks and everything gets soaked. We bed down expecting a wet night but the tent stands up well to the battering and we had a good nights sleep instead. So much for sunny Asia – we are now at our furthest point south.
Saturday 24th May Rest day.
We decided that today were having a rest day and to go and see the sights of Ankara. We woke at 0900 and had breakfast of bread, butter and honey and a good cuppa. By 1100 we had done all out dirty washing and hung it up to dry and had a good shower.
We decided to leave the Land Rover at the campsite and travel in by a bus taxi service the Turks have called a ‘dolmus’. It is a mini-bus that everybody crams into and it’s very cheap. We found the Turks very friendly and Fred has a bit of a chat with one of them who could speak German. Sleepy and I didn’t understand a word but we had a good laugh.
It dropped us in Ankara in the market area. Squalid and smelly. We walked through two or three main streets of new buildings in very hot sunlight. Fred nearly got dragged away by a chap enticing him to come on a tour of the city. We wanted to see part of the city but it was too far to walk so we didn’t. Instead we went for a walk in a large park near the middle of the city. It had a man-made lake in the centre which was nearly dry! They were cleaning it out so we just wandered and had an ice-cream whilst watching the antics of a decrepit fire tender trying to drain some of the water out of the lake.
We didn’t know where to get the ‘dolmus’ back to camp and so we flagged down a taxi. With the aid of a sign language we tried to fix a price and thought we had got a fair one out of him! No such luck. We got to the Mocamp and found that we had misunderstood the signs. Very costly mistake £1 and eight pence instead of 5/-. Clothes were dry and we had a nice afternoon sunbathing. We had a game of cards and went to bed.
We decided that today were having a rest day and to go and see the sights of Ankara. We woke at 0900 and had breakfast of bread, butter and honey and a good cuppa. By 1100 we had done all out dirty washing and hung it up to dry and had a good shower.
We decided to leave the Land Rover at the campsite and travel in by a bus taxi service the Turks have called a ‘dolmus’. It is a mini-bus that everybody crams into and it’s very cheap. We found the Turks very friendly and Fred has a bit of a chat with one of them who could speak German. Sleepy and I didn’t understand a word but we had a good laugh.
It dropped us in Ankara in the market area. Squalid and smelly. We walked through two or three main streets of new buildings in very hot sunlight. Fred nearly got dragged away by a chap enticing him to come on a tour of the city. We wanted to see part of the city but it was too far to walk so we didn’t. Instead we went for a walk in a large park near the middle of the city. It had a man-made lake in the centre which was nearly dry! They were cleaning it out so we just wandered and had an ice-cream whilst watching the antics of a decrepit fire tender trying to drain some of the water out of the lake.
We didn’t know where to get the ‘dolmus’ back to camp and so we flagged down a taxi. With the aid of a sign language we tried to fix a price and thought we had got a fair one out of him! No such luck. We got to the Mocamp and found that we had misunderstood the signs. Very costly mistake £1 and eight pence instead of 5/-. Clothes were dry and we had a nice afternoon sunbathing. We had a game of cards and went to bed.
Sunday 25th May Distance travelled 251 miles. (Map 11)
We were up early at 0615, washed, packed the tent and the rest of the gear and had breakfast of tea and bread and honey. Set off at 0700 for the Black Sea. Collected some petrol before we left Ankara and drove until 1050 when we had a brew up. We have had a good scenic run so far, made better by the weather. Seems to be changing again, not a cloud in the sky. Looks like getting hot later on.
Stopped for a brew up at the River Delice, weather scorching and set off for Corum at 1135. The roads are still smooth tarmac and we don’t anticipate any bad stuff until Iran. How wrong we were! Got some petrol at Sungurly and had another cuppa at Kavak. We’re up in the hills now and some of the roads are getting a bit rough.
We were up early at 0615, washed, packed the tent and the rest of the gear and had breakfast of tea and bread and honey. Set off at 0700 for the Black Sea. Collected some petrol before we left Ankara and drove until 1050 when we had a brew up. We have had a good scenic run so far, made better by the weather. Seems to be changing again, not a cloud in the sky. Looks like getting hot later on.
Stopped for a brew up at the River Delice, weather scorching and set off for Corum at 1135. The roads are still smooth tarmac and we don’t anticipate any bad stuff until Iran. How wrong we were! Got some petrol at Sungurly and had another cuppa at Kavak. We’re up in the hills now and some of the roads are getting a bit rough.
Typical of the Turkish villages we encountered on the way to Samsun. Not sure what the structure is at bottom right. (Archimedes screw type water supply maybe?) Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Started to rain at 1700 as we neared Samsun but it was only a drizzle and didn’t last long. We reached Samsun at 1750 after a long descent to the sea but couldn’t find a campsite anywhere. In desperation we pulled in at a filling station to ask directions and the chap kindly offered to let us camp at the side of the garage.
We warily accepted and set up the tent and had a filling meal of beans, stew, bread and butter. We decided to take no chances and I slept in the Land Rover while Fred and Sleepy were in the tent. We stayed awake as long as we could playing cards. We got many curious glances for the Turkish folk filling up their tractors and cleaning down their big lorrys. Finally off to sleep at 2330.
We warily accepted and set up the tent and had a filling meal of beans, stew, bread and butter. We decided to take no chances and I slept in the Land Rover while Fred and Sleepy were in the tent. We stayed awake as long as we could playing cards. We got many curious glances for the Turkish folk filling up their tractors and cleaning down their big lorrys. Finally off to sleep at 2330.
Turkish Fuel Stop. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Monday 26th May Distance travelled 176 miles. (Map 11)
Up at 0730 and everybody had a good night sleep. Weather was overcast and chilly. We had breakfast of bread and honey again – found out what time the banks opened in Samsun and promised to come back and buy some petrol off of the kind fellow.
At 0900 we departed for Samsun to change some money and get a bit of food. Bread is very cheap and very good – crusty torpedoes. We have tried to get cucumber, lettuce and tomatoes but they are scarce and it’s hard to make the shopkeepers understand what we want. So we to stick to bread and honey most days, having a good stew when we camp to fill us up. Finally set off for Trabzon at 0930 and decided that the Turks were really a friendly bunch.
Met some bad roads – part loose gravel, part tarmac and part potholes near Unye. At 1200 were right on the beach and we decided on a lunch break on the sands, so we drove on and nearly stayed there. The Land Rover sank and we had to unload it and use four wheel drive before we could get out of it. Still we got I back on the road OK and had a sunbake, relaxing after the effort. Also had some bread and honey. Back driving at 1300 and the road seems to be improving a bit. After an hour’s hard slog stopped for a cuppa just the other side of Fatsa on a steep winding road on top of a cliff. Great View.
At 1515 we had out first puncture – a 6” nail in the offside front wheel. Had to unload the whole of the back to get at the spare and the jack. Took us twenty minutes to change it. We were hindered by half a dozen children trying to sell us tiny strawberries. Fred had his hands full keeping them out of the back.
For the next hour we cut across a headland leaving the coast. Very exciting scenery but in some places dangerous, driving up and down narrow roads till we made Ordu. From then on we followed the coast road along the Black Sea and at 1830 arrived at a Mocamp at Vakfikebir, a very pleasant site but not very big, but as we were the only one’s there it didn’t matter. Had tea of sardines and tuna and a cuppa. Decided to have another rest day tomorrow, repair the puncture and clean up the Land Rover.
Up at 0730 and everybody had a good night sleep. Weather was overcast and chilly. We had breakfast of bread and honey again – found out what time the banks opened in Samsun and promised to come back and buy some petrol off of the kind fellow.
At 0900 we departed for Samsun to change some money and get a bit of food. Bread is very cheap and very good – crusty torpedoes. We have tried to get cucumber, lettuce and tomatoes but they are scarce and it’s hard to make the shopkeepers understand what we want. So we to stick to bread and honey most days, having a good stew when we camp to fill us up. Finally set off for Trabzon at 0930 and decided that the Turks were really a friendly bunch.
Met some bad roads – part loose gravel, part tarmac and part potholes near Unye. At 1200 were right on the beach and we decided on a lunch break on the sands, so we drove on and nearly stayed there. The Land Rover sank and we had to unload it and use four wheel drive before we could get out of it. Still we got I back on the road OK and had a sunbake, relaxing after the effort. Also had some bread and honey. Back driving at 1300 and the road seems to be improving a bit. After an hour’s hard slog stopped for a cuppa just the other side of Fatsa on a steep winding road on top of a cliff. Great View.
At 1515 we had out first puncture – a 6” nail in the offside front wheel. Had to unload the whole of the back to get at the spare and the jack. Took us twenty minutes to change it. We were hindered by half a dozen children trying to sell us tiny strawberries. Fred had his hands full keeping them out of the back.
For the next hour we cut across a headland leaving the coast. Very exciting scenery but in some places dangerous, driving up and down narrow roads till we made Ordu. From then on we followed the coast road along the Black Sea and at 1830 arrived at a Mocamp at Vakfikebir, a very pleasant site but not very big, but as we were the only one’s there it didn’t matter. Had tea of sardines and tuna and a cuppa. Decided to have another rest day tomorrow, repair the puncture and clean up the Land Rover.
Tuesday 27th May Rest day.
Woke up at 0830 and had breakfast of honey bread and butter and tea. Went to town to try and get a bit of food. Again we were surrounded by locals, and this is getting more and more the procedure as we pull up anywhere. Many youngsters and some of the elderly folk stopping, staring and touching the vehicle. Some speak a little English and are very friendly. Today starts a three day holiday celebration for the Turks, the 50th anniversary of their revolution and while in town, we were passed by the town’s “Sergeant Pepper” band, the equivalent of our scouts and girl guides. All very colourful and spectacular.
Went back to the campsite to fix the puncture, which we finally managed to do after re-puncturing the tube twice. Still we got plenty of practice putting the tyre on and off. I again checked all the nuts on the sump, gearbox etc. Fred cleaned out the inside of the cab and back and we all got together to wash the outside down afterwards. Looks like new again.
Last night two Citroens arrived at the campsite after us, one from Switzerland and one from Holland. Made friends with the owners who were travelling together as far as Erzurum, then the Dutch pair were going to India and the two Frenchmen were completing a circular tour of Turkey, very interesting.
Haven’t seen the sun yet although it’s not very cold. In the afternoon we all went for a swim, the sun finally appearing in the late afternoon enabling us to have a brief sunbathe.
Had one of our best meals yet for tea, thick vegetable soup with bread followed by cucumber, tomatoes and bread and butter. Excellent. After tea we were having a kick around on the beach and were joined by some of the locals. We picked sides and had a very enjoyable game. They are quite good at it and are as tough as nails. The beach wasn’t all sand but still they played barefoot. Went for another quick dip and after a game of cards went to bed.
Woke up at 0830 and had breakfast of honey bread and butter and tea. Went to town to try and get a bit of food. Again we were surrounded by locals, and this is getting more and more the procedure as we pull up anywhere. Many youngsters and some of the elderly folk stopping, staring and touching the vehicle. Some speak a little English and are very friendly. Today starts a three day holiday celebration for the Turks, the 50th anniversary of their revolution and while in town, we were passed by the town’s “Sergeant Pepper” band, the equivalent of our scouts and girl guides. All very colourful and spectacular.
Went back to the campsite to fix the puncture, which we finally managed to do after re-puncturing the tube twice. Still we got plenty of practice putting the tyre on and off. I again checked all the nuts on the sump, gearbox etc. Fred cleaned out the inside of the cab and back and we all got together to wash the outside down afterwards. Looks like new again.
Last night two Citroens arrived at the campsite after us, one from Switzerland and one from Holland. Made friends with the owners who were travelling together as far as Erzurum, then the Dutch pair were going to India and the two Frenchmen were completing a circular tour of Turkey, very interesting.
Haven’t seen the sun yet although it’s not very cold. In the afternoon we all went for a swim, the sun finally appearing in the late afternoon enabling us to have a brief sunbathe.
Had one of our best meals yet for tea, thick vegetable soup with bread followed by cucumber, tomatoes and bread and butter. Excellent. After tea we were having a kick around on the beach and were joined by some of the locals. We picked sides and had a very enjoyable game. They are quite good at it and are as tough as nails. The beach wasn’t all sand but still they played barefoot. Went for another quick dip and after a game of cards went to bed.
Wednesday 28th May Distance travelled 194 miles. (Map 12)
At 0700 we awoke and packed the gear and were away by 0740. Within an hour we had made Trabzon and brought some grub. The road this morning was still rough in places but nothing to compare with what we had met at Unye. We left the coast at Trabzon and turned south up an ascent with some wonderful scenery.
At 0700 we awoke and packed the gear and were away by 0740. Within an hour we had made Trabzon and brought some grub. The road this morning was still rough in places but nothing to compare with what we had met at Unye. We left the coast at Trabzon and turned south up an ascent with some wonderful scenery.
South of Trabzon. And before you ask - No, we didn't. I would have remembered going over THAT bridge. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
At about 4000ft in a village we saw the two Citroens from last night and stopped to have a chat. When we got back to the Land Rover it wouldn’t start. Thought we were in dead trouble until we found that it was the earth lead, which had jumped off the battery.
We stopped for some breakfast at 1100 by a waterfall, cucumber sandwiches and tea and biscuits. Back on the road we met the Citroens again at 6500ft at the top of the Zigana Pass. They were trying to get a photograph of some eagles, supposed to be a few up here, but they couldn’t get close enough.
We stopped for some breakfast at 1100 by a waterfall, cucumber sandwiches and tea and biscuits. Back on the road we met the Citroens again at 6500ft at the top of the Zigana Pass. They were trying to get a photograph of some eagles, supposed to be a few up here, but they couldn’t get close enough.
The road rises up to the Zigana Pass with a breathtaking view towards Georgia and Armenia. Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas.
We then started the descent and managed to roll most of the way down to Torul saving on our petrol. The good tarmac road we’d had from Trabzon stopped at Torul and we were now on bad, dusty, pitted roads. Stopped for a cuppa at 1420 to get some of the dust out of our throats, while resting we met a group of Americans in a dormobile going the opposite way. They told us about the conditions further east and we returned the favour. Finally set off again at 1520 after Fred had had a ride on a small boy’s donkey! By 1805 we were higher than we had ever been before 7500ft. From this position we could see the Iranian mountains, we looked to be on top of the world.
7500 ft above sea level and the views don't get any better, just south of Bayburt looking towards Iran. Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas.
There is a monument after passing Bayburt called the Kop Monument, and it’s dedicated to the Turks who lost their lives fighting over these mountains in these bleak conditions. Road was much better after Askale. Again we managed to roll most of the way down to the plateau of Eastern Turkey.
Made Erzurum by 1930 at another B.P parking place, quickly got ready for the night and had another good meal, tomatoes, cucumber, bread and butter and a steaming cuppa. Then went to bed, very cold here. The Land Rover did a lot of climbing today – she’s going well.
Made Erzurum by 1930 at another B.P parking place, quickly got ready for the night and had another good meal, tomatoes, cucumber, bread and butter and a steaming cuppa. Then went to bed, very cold here. The Land Rover did a lot of climbing today – she’s going well.
View of the outskirts of Erzurum, elevation about 6200 ft above sea level. Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas.
hursday 29th May Distance travelled 171 miles. (Map 12)
Were woken by the noise of a coach load of passengers from Calcutta. We got talking to an American and an Aussie and heard a lot about the road conditions ahead and life in Australia. We bought some tinned stuff and biscuits for the small shop at the garage. Packed up our stuff and had a tuna fish breakfast! Finally left the garage at 1045.
At 1300 we stopped for petrol at Horasan and also bought some ice cool yoghurt. We stopped 20 minutes later in a gorge for some dinner. We’d brought a tin of strawberries from the garage and together with the yoghurt they were fantastic. The scenery of the gorge was marvellous, one thin winding road between two massive outcrops of rock stretching for a mile or so, while the floor of the basin was littered with rocks which had been eroded by a raging torrent, now but a slow moving shallow stream. To cap it all, blue skies with not a cloud in sight.
Fred finally had a shave, not before time, and we restarted at 1425. The road from Erzurum to Agri was good tarmac. The only trouble was that every few miles we hit a patch of 6” ripples which really shook us. Just before Agri the road became very straight and narrow roads stretching across the valley before us.
The road was just wide enough for two small vehicles. On our side (right) there was heaps of gravel ready to be put on the road and we had a narrow escape when we met a Dodge coming the other way. Neither of us gave way and it seemed as though there would be an almighty smash. We heard a slight bump and thought nothing of it till we saw the nearside wing mirror had smashed. Don’t know how close we came to disaster. Still we pressed on regardless. Fred jokingly remarked it was his turn for a smash, as Sleepy had been driving at the time. He didn’t know at the time the truth of that statement. It wasn’t a smash but something almost as bad.
We decided to camp the night this side of the Turkish border and make an early start in the morning. We camped fifteen miles from Dogubeyazit, behind a bank forming the road kerb. It was way out of the view of the road and ideal. We also had a magnificent view of Mount Ararat - supposed landing place of Noah's Ark!
Were woken by the noise of a coach load of passengers from Calcutta. We got talking to an American and an Aussie and heard a lot about the road conditions ahead and life in Australia. We bought some tinned stuff and biscuits for the small shop at the garage. Packed up our stuff and had a tuna fish breakfast! Finally left the garage at 1045.
At 1300 we stopped for petrol at Horasan and also bought some ice cool yoghurt. We stopped 20 minutes later in a gorge for some dinner. We’d brought a tin of strawberries from the garage and together with the yoghurt they were fantastic. The scenery of the gorge was marvellous, one thin winding road between two massive outcrops of rock stretching for a mile or so, while the floor of the basin was littered with rocks which had been eroded by a raging torrent, now but a slow moving shallow stream. To cap it all, blue skies with not a cloud in sight.
Fred finally had a shave, not before time, and we restarted at 1425. The road from Erzurum to Agri was good tarmac. The only trouble was that every few miles we hit a patch of 6” ripples which really shook us. Just before Agri the road became very straight and narrow roads stretching across the valley before us.
The road was just wide enough for two small vehicles. On our side (right) there was heaps of gravel ready to be put on the road and we had a narrow escape when we met a Dodge coming the other way. Neither of us gave way and it seemed as though there would be an almighty smash. We heard a slight bump and thought nothing of it till we saw the nearside wing mirror had smashed. Don’t know how close we came to disaster. Still we pressed on regardless. Fred jokingly remarked it was his turn for a smash, as Sleepy had been driving at the time. He didn’t know at the time the truth of that statement. It wasn’t a smash but something almost as bad.
We decided to camp the night this side of the Turkish border and make an early start in the morning. We camped fifteen miles from Dogubeyazit, behind a bank forming the road kerb. It was way out of the view of the road and ideal. We also had a magnificent view of Mount Ararat - supposed landing place of Noah's Ark!
Our first view of Mt Ararat, close to where we spent the night. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
We settled down and had a big stew of two soups, two steak and kidney pies, bread, butter and coffee. It was to be our last night in Turkey and it looked like being the coldest yet. Fred’s calculated we’ve done 3000miles.
Friday 30th May Distance travelled 40 miles. (Map 13)
We were up early at 0630 after a cold night’s sleep. We’d been woken by the police early in the morning. They seemed to think it was funny when we said we were English and they left us in peace. We were surrounded by sheep in the morning and two tattered peasants watched us pack up. We were away by 0700.
At 0900 we arrived at the Turkish (Gurbulak)-Iran (Bazargan) border post only to encounter disaster. Fred couldn’t find his PASSPORT! We didn’t know what to do – had all out planning been ruined?
Fred racked his brains to try and remember where it might be. Last time he used it was in a bank in Samsun - 800 miles away! We were worse off than we thought, no one at the border spoke English!
Finally found a bloke who could speak a little French and Fred got through to him after a time. We decided to try and phone the bank at Samsun. We found to our disappointment that the facilities at the post were not much better than the pony express. They couldn’t even phone to Samsun. We decided to telegram the bank. Our French-speaking friend, who was the banker at the border post office, wrote out the telegram – and he must have put his life story into it. The rate per word was a few pence and it cost more than £2 in the end.
We sat back to await a response as nothing moves fast here. Finally we got the reply at 1545. The bank had the passport and they were sending it by auto bus. The bloke at the office said it could take anything up to four days to get here. We had no choice but to wait.
At 1730 we went back to Dogubeyazit to get some food – no shop at the border. We gave the banker a lift back there and he gave us a rendering of some old Turkish love song – he had a terrible voice. We nicknamed him ‘Dogubeyazit’ from then on, because every night he would beg lifts from people crossing the border and all he could say to them was ‘Dogubeyazit'.
After a brew-up and a few sandwiches we kipped down for the night after the worst day so far. Luckily we were able to use an abandoned Bedford van at the border post to sleep in. Nowhere to pitch the tent so Sleepy slept in the Land Rover, Fred and myself kipping in the van.
We were up early at 0630 after a cold night’s sleep. We’d been woken by the police early in the morning. They seemed to think it was funny when we said we were English and they left us in peace. We were surrounded by sheep in the morning and two tattered peasants watched us pack up. We were away by 0700.
At 0900 we arrived at the Turkish (Gurbulak)-Iran (Bazargan) border post only to encounter disaster. Fred couldn’t find his PASSPORT! We didn’t know what to do – had all out planning been ruined?
Fred racked his brains to try and remember where it might be. Last time he used it was in a bank in Samsun - 800 miles away! We were worse off than we thought, no one at the border spoke English!
Finally found a bloke who could speak a little French and Fred got through to him after a time. We decided to try and phone the bank at Samsun. We found to our disappointment that the facilities at the post were not much better than the pony express. They couldn’t even phone to Samsun. We decided to telegram the bank. Our French-speaking friend, who was the banker at the border post office, wrote out the telegram – and he must have put his life story into it. The rate per word was a few pence and it cost more than £2 in the end.
We sat back to await a response as nothing moves fast here. Finally we got the reply at 1545. The bank had the passport and they were sending it by auto bus. The bloke at the office said it could take anything up to four days to get here. We had no choice but to wait.
At 1730 we went back to Dogubeyazit to get some food – no shop at the border. We gave the banker a lift back there and he gave us a rendering of some old Turkish love song – he had a terrible voice. We nicknamed him ‘Dogubeyazit’ from then on, because every night he would beg lifts from people crossing the border and all he could say to them was ‘Dogubeyazit'.
After a brew-up and a few sandwiches we kipped down for the night after the worst day so far. Luckily we were able to use an abandoned Bedford van at the border post to sleep in. Nowhere to pitch the tent so Sleepy slept in the Land Rover, Fred and myself kipping in the van.