Iran
Thursday 5th June Distance travelled 235 miles. (Map 13)
We rose early at 0600, had a quick cuppa, a good wash at the village tap and packed our gear. Customs opened at 0700 and we were first through. By 0915 we were through the Iranian customs but it didn’t really take all that long, we had just put our watches forward 1½ hours.
Road to begin with was excellent tarmac. At the border we changed £10 to Iranian Rials. The first town we came to, Macou, made a good impression on us. It has pavements and street lighting, a great change from eastern Turkey. However we found that food seems a bit dearer than in Turkey.
We did a bit of shopping and got under way at 1115. We sighted our first camel not in a zoo and as things turned out we didn’t see any more. At 1300 we stopped for lunch and a brew up, the weather is very hot. Had tuna fish sandwiches and set off at 1340. After collecting some petrol at Marand we reached Tabriz, first big city in Iran at about 1500. Very modern compared with Turkey.
Just after Tabriz we hit a bad patch of road as we'd expected from the maps we had been given at the border post and this continued for some time, not too bad but it slowed us down a bit. We wanted to make Tehran in two days and we were behind schedule. At 1730 we were flashed down by two English fellows in a big articulated lorry. They had broken an air pipe on their brakes. We lent them a few tools and had a good chat to them. They did a regular trip to Tehran and told us a few tales of the nightlife there.
They gave us a cuppa and also some sugar and steak and kidney puddings from an overstocked larder, great chaps. They fixed their air pipe OK and we got on the road again at 1840. A profitable encounter, we got quite a bit of food off them. By 1900 we had found a campsite in a gorge by the side of a small river about 10 miles south of Bostan Abad. Had an excellent meal with the steak and kidney pudds and soup and bread and butter and a cuppa. We got to bed at 2115 with the roar of thunder in our ears but it didn’t rain.
Road to begin with was excellent tarmac. At the border we changed £10 to Iranian Rials. The first town we came to, Macou, made a good impression on us. It has pavements and street lighting, a great change from eastern Turkey. However we found that food seems a bit dearer than in Turkey.
We did a bit of shopping and got under way at 1115. We sighted our first camel not in a zoo and as things turned out we didn’t see any more. At 1300 we stopped for lunch and a brew up, the weather is very hot. Had tuna fish sandwiches and set off at 1340. After collecting some petrol at Marand we reached Tabriz, first big city in Iran at about 1500. Very modern compared with Turkey.
Just after Tabriz we hit a bad patch of road as we'd expected from the maps we had been given at the border post and this continued for some time, not too bad but it slowed us down a bit. We wanted to make Tehran in two days and we were behind schedule. At 1730 we were flashed down by two English fellows in a big articulated lorry. They had broken an air pipe on their brakes. We lent them a few tools and had a good chat to them. They did a regular trip to Tehran and told us a few tales of the nightlife there.
They gave us a cuppa and also some sugar and steak and kidney puddings from an overstocked larder, great chaps. They fixed their air pipe OK and we got on the road again at 1840. A profitable encounter, we got quite a bit of food off them. By 1900 we had found a campsite in a gorge by the side of a small river about 10 miles south of Bostan Abad. Had an excellent meal with the steak and kidney pudds and soup and bread and butter and a cuppa. We got to bed at 2115 with the roar of thunder in our ears but it didn’t rain.
The Iranian transit visa we got in London with the entry (at Barzargan) and exit (at Dogharoun) border stamps. We quickly got used to the Eastern Arabic numerals as we drove in Iran and Afghanistan. It wasn't until I was checking these stamps for dates, something didn't gel till I found they used a 'Solar Hijra" calendar as different to our Gregorian one. Never too old to learn.
Friday 6th June Distance travelled 332 miles. (Map 13)
We were up early at 0500. Very cold, had a wash in the stream and a welcome cup of coffee. Were on the road at 0540. At 0730 we stopped at a café to buy some bread and had a breakfast as we travelled along the road. The bread isn’t like Turkish or English bread, it is chapatti like and pliable but in quantity very filling. Stopped about 30 miles from Zandzan for a brew up and to give the motor a rest. Now beginning to get hot. We got back on the road after half an hour and made good time before we stopped again about 160 miles from Tehran.
While checking the oil and water I found that the ignition coil had broken loose from its bracket and was suspended by the wires attached to it. Managed to fix it with some spare bolts and nuts from the toolbox. We got under way again and stopped at Ghazin for some petrol and stopped again for a brew-up just outside Ghazvin. By 1755 we reached the Katadaj-Tehran Freeway. It’s a toll road and dual carriage way all the way, about 30 miles. It’s our first European style highway since Germany.
At 2000 we reached the campsite in Tehran. It is already dark and we had a lot of trouble finding the place. We were misdirected twice and ended up down backstreets, which are like a scambling track and rubbish tip combined, and Dave told me I ran over a dog which I can’t remember at all. Anyway we made it at last and found a parking space next to the Yorkshire lads in the LWB. Even in the moonlight the swimming pool looked inviting. We got to know the other chaps better, exchanged stories and went to the restaurant at the camp. They have a TV and all facilities. We saw “The Saint” in English and had a coke each and went to bed at 2300 very tired indeed.
We were up early at 0500. Very cold, had a wash in the stream and a welcome cup of coffee. Were on the road at 0540. At 0730 we stopped at a café to buy some bread and had a breakfast as we travelled along the road. The bread isn’t like Turkish or English bread, it is chapatti like and pliable but in quantity very filling. Stopped about 30 miles from Zandzan for a brew up and to give the motor a rest. Now beginning to get hot. We got back on the road after half an hour and made good time before we stopped again about 160 miles from Tehran.
While checking the oil and water I found that the ignition coil had broken loose from its bracket and was suspended by the wires attached to it. Managed to fix it with some spare bolts and nuts from the toolbox. We got under way again and stopped at Ghazin for some petrol and stopped again for a brew-up just outside Ghazvin. By 1755 we reached the Katadaj-Tehran Freeway. It’s a toll road and dual carriage way all the way, about 30 miles. It’s our first European style highway since Germany.
At 2000 we reached the campsite in Tehran. It is already dark and we had a lot of trouble finding the place. We were misdirected twice and ended up down backstreets, which are like a scambling track and rubbish tip combined, and Dave told me I ran over a dog which I can’t remember at all. Anyway we made it at last and found a parking space next to the Yorkshire lads in the LWB. Even in the moonlight the swimming pool looked inviting. We got to know the other chaps better, exchanged stories and went to the restaurant at the camp. They have a TV and all facilities. We saw “The Saint” in English and had a coke each and went to bed at 2300 very tired indeed.
Saturday 7th June Rest day.
We decided to have two rest days at the campsite and therefore had a lie-in in bed till 0900. I was first in the pool. It was fantastic. Didn’t have too good a night’s sleep because the ground was rock hard here. From the camp shop we bought some bread for breakfast and found it different from the bread we had got travelling from the border. This type is like a very thick string vest; but gets very dry and doesn’t keep at all.
The flies here are a nuisance. There are thousands of them. Still there are no mossies – thank god. We mucked about all day doing nothing. Swimming, sunbathing, getting to know the other lads and yet again back in the pool and more sunbathing. Several interesting people have arrived at the campsite today.
A long wheelbase Land Rover arrived with one Canadian and three Aussies aboard. They were on their way back to Canada. They told us about the boat trip from Aussie - that we can reduce the cost of shipping by taking the hood and windscreen off. There was also a group from England who arrived in a 3-ton lorry. They’d just come up from Isfahan. They had been there two days waiting for their Afghani visas to be settled. Two of the best looking birds we’ve seen for weeks were with them.
Had some yoghurt for dinner, which was expensive and during the afternoon we shared a massive watermelon – very cheap and delicious. An American arrived in the afternoon with his wife and two kids. They’ve got the lot! SWB Land Rover with a trailer. A massive double tent compete with dining area and all round protections of mosquito nets. He’s a naval officer and has come all the way from China.
We’ve been getting on well with the four guys from Yorkshire, Graham, Bob, Lufus and Ian. We’ll probably be seeing a lot of them from now on. Both groups are heading along the same route to India. Spent the evening watching TV (wrestling and an old film). Had a cuppa and off to kip.
We decided to have two rest days at the campsite and therefore had a lie-in in bed till 0900. I was first in the pool. It was fantastic. Didn’t have too good a night’s sleep because the ground was rock hard here. From the camp shop we bought some bread for breakfast and found it different from the bread we had got travelling from the border. This type is like a very thick string vest; but gets very dry and doesn’t keep at all.
The flies here are a nuisance. There are thousands of them. Still there are no mossies – thank god. We mucked about all day doing nothing. Swimming, sunbathing, getting to know the other lads and yet again back in the pool and more sunbathing. Several interesting people have arrived at the campsite today.
A long wheelbase Land Rover arrived with one Canadian and three Aussies aboard. They were on their way back to Canada. They told us about the boat trip from Aussie - that we can reduce the cost of shipping by taking the hood and windscreen off. There was also a group from England who arrived in a 3-ton lorry. They’d just come up from Isfahan. They had been there two days waiting for their Afghani visas to be settled. Two of the best looking birds we’ve seen for weeks were with them.
Had some yoghurt for dinner, which was expensive and during the afternoon we shared a massive watermelon – very cheap and delicious. An American arrived in the afternoon with his wife and two kids. They’ve got the lot! SWB Land Rover with a trailer. A massive double tent compete with dining area and all round protections of mosquito nets. He’s a naval officer and has come all the way from China.
We’ve been getting on well with the four guys from Yorkshire, Graham, Bob, Lufus and Ian. We’ll probably be seeing a lot of them from now on. Both groups are heading along the same route to India. Spent the evening watching TV (wrestling and an old film). Had a cuppa and off to kip.
Sunday 8th June Rest day.
Bread, coffee and marmalade at 8:00am and it’s very hot already. Spent all day in the swimming pool, very hot and humid. We went rash and had sausage and chips at the restaurant and a Pepsi. We’ve decided to leave early in the morning. Chatting to two couples today we found that it would be expensive for us to get to Aussie. They are both in cars, one Holden, one Volkswagen and they told us the prices, etc.
Spent the afternoon reading, swimming and swatting flies. Counted and checked the foodstuffs. We also rearranged and repacked all our gear. We were hoping for an early night but ‘Seven Year Itch’ came on TV and we all stayed up to watch it. We also paid up the campsite money and changed some cheques ready for the morning.
Bread, coffee and marmalade at 8:00am and it’s very hot already. Spent all day in the swimming pool, very hot and humid. We went rash and had sausage and chips at the restaurant and a Pepsi. We’ve decided to leave early in the morning. Chatting to two couples today we found that it would be expensive for us to get to Aussie. They are both in cars, one Holden, one Volkswagen and they told us the prices, etc.
Spent the afternoon reading, swimming and swatting flies. Counted and checked the foodstuffs. We also rearranged and repacked all our gear. We were hoping for an early night but ‘Seven Year Itch’ came on TV and we all stayed up to watch it. We also paid up the campsite money and changed some cheques ready for the morning.
Monday 9th June Distance travelled 225 miles. (Map 14)
I got up and made coffee at 0400 in the morning, and we left the campsite at 0530 after showers, etc. and headed for the Caspian Coast. Collected some petrol in Tehran and had a hectic drive through the city in the morning ‘rush hour’ and getting out of the city making steady progress on very smooth tarmac and through some magnificent scenery. We were climbing pretty rapidly and it’s having an effect on the engine but we’re not worrying. The road has been built through breathtaking countryside but we had to take a bit of care and negotiate a couple of landslides.
I got up and made coffee at 0400 in the morning, and we left the campsite at 0530 after showers, etc. and headed for the Caspian Coast. Collected some petrol in Tehran and had a hectic drive through the city in the morning ‘rush hour’ and getting out of the city making steady progress on very smooth tarmac and through some magnificent scenery. We were climbing pretty rapidly and it’s having an effect on the engine but we’re not worrying. The road has been built through breathtaking countryside but we had to take a bit of care and negotiate a couple of landslides.
We stopped for a cuppa and the four lads in the LWB caught up to us. Without to much discussion, the idea of travelling together from now on was OK'd by everyonel. We stopped in Amol and did some shopping. We haven’t eaten yet but nobody seems to be hungry. Both Land Rovers pulled off the road 10 miles from Babol and we had dinner of bread, butter, jam, cheese and coffee.
We decided to find a spot on the Caspian to camp for the night. We continued on till 1900 reaching the Caspian and looked about for a site for the night. The main road seemed to running parallel with the beach and about a mile away. So at Bandar-e-Gaz we decided to have a closer look, to our surprise we found no beach or sand, it was muddy and swampy. We were soon surrounded by a crowd of young kids and after a few minutes a local copper arrived on a bicycle!
We tried to explain that we only wanted to camp the night but couldn’t make him understand. He finally gestured to us to follow him. Must have looked funny, two Land Rovers with a bunch of kids trailing the copper on his bike. We had no choice – perhaps he thought we were spies – after all we’re only 40 miles from the Russian border.
He led us to the police station and our passports were taken and all our names written down. We thought we would spend the night in ‘clink’ but an English-speaking teacher explained that it was only a formality and we were invited to bed down in the station yard. But we were all fed up by now, declined the offer, and after an hour’s delay we headed off. About 2030 we pulled off the road and set up camp.
We’d just finished a stew for tea when a car pulled up alongside. It was a Hillman Hunter, known in Iran as a ‘Peykan’ (costing £3000). Like other Iranians we’d ran into they sat and stared at us for a while then came down for a closer look. The way they were acting they seemed drunk or nuts. They had some ‘pop’ music on their car radio and they did a little dance for us. We all joined in and had a good laugh. They then told us there were bandits in the area and should not camp here. We were too tired to take any notice but Fred slept the night in the Land Rover. It had been a long day.
We decided to find a spot on the Caspian to camp for the night. We continued on till 1900 reaching the Caspian and looked about for a site for the night. The main road seemed to running parallel with the beach and about a mile away. So at Bandar-e-Gaz we decided to have a closer look, to our surprise we found no beach or sand, it was muddy and swampy. We were soon surrounded by a crowd of young kids and after a few minutes a local copper arrived on a bicycle!
We tried to explain that we only wanted to camp the night but couldn’t make him understand. He finally gestured to us to follow him. Must have looked funny, two Land Rovers with a bunch of kids trailing the copper on his bike. We had no choice – perhaps he thought we were spies – after all we’re only 40 miles from the Russian border.
He led us to the police station and our passports were taken and all our names written down. We thought we would spend the night in ‘clink’ but an English-speaking teacher explained that it was only a formality and we were invited to bed down in the station yard. But we were all fed up by now, declined the offer, and after an hour’s delay we headed off. About 2030 we pulled off the road and set up camp.
We’d just finished a stew for tea when a car pulled up alongside. It was a Hillman Hunter, known in Iran as a ‘Peykan’ (costing £3000). Like other Iranians we’d ran into they sat and stared at us for a while then came down for a closer look. The way they were acting they seemed drunk or nuts. They had some ‘pop’ music on their car radio and they did a little dance for us. We all joined in and had a good laugh. They then told us there were bandits in the area and should not camp here. We were too tired to take any notice but Fred slept the night in the Land Rover. It had been a long day.
Tuesday 10th June Distance travelled 203 miles. (Map 14)
I woke up early again, and after some persuasion managed to get everybody else up. Our four new mates are all heavy sleepers, especially Lufus, who has to be dragged out of the tent before he wakes up.
By 0700 everybody had had a good breakfast, packed the gear and were ready to go. That is the four Yorks lads had breakfast – we had nothing to eat. At 0800 we stopped at Gorgan for petrol and did some shopping. We bought bread, potatoes, onions, and some ice cold yogurt which was fabulous and dirt cheap. We breakfasted on the road.
We pulled off the road for a cuppa a few hours later. Graham, who was a mechanic, had a go at tuning our carburettor as it has been causing us trouble. The motor had been backfiring badly. In doing this the top radiator hose has split and we replaced it with a new one we had on board. We also noticed that water was leaking from the side of the engine block.
I woke up early again, and after some persuasion managed to get everybody else up. Our four new mates are all heavy sleepers, especially Lufus, who has to be dragged out of the tent before he wakes up.
By 0700 everybody had had a good breakfast, packed the gear and were ready to go. That is the four Yorks lads had breakfast – we had nothing to eat. At 0800 we stopped at Gorgan for petrol and did some shopping. We bought bread, potatoes, onions, and some ice cold yogurt which was fabulous and dirt cheap. We breakfasted on the road.
We pulled off the road for a cuppa a few hours later. Graham, who was a mechanic, had a go at tuning our carburettor as it has been causing us trouble. The motor had been backfiring badly. In doing this the top radiator hose has split and we replaced it with a new one we had on board. We also noticed that water was leaking from the side of the engine block.
It turned out to be a leaking core plug. Not having anything to do with these in the past we didn’t know what to do, but we hoped it would get us to Mashhad where we could get a spare core plug. Sleepy suggested that we put some ‘Radwell’ in the water to try and seal it up and it seemed to do the trick. Graham did his best with the carby and we returned to the road with our fingers crossed.
We were travelling in front and looking for a spot to stop for a cuppa, then realised the others were not in sight. The roads were really bad now, no tarmac just loose gravel on hard stony tracks across the road. Really chucks everything about. But if you speed up a bit we seem to glide over them and it gets smoother. The Yorks lads caught up with us – they’d broken a fan belt and had to replace it. We had a cuppa by a stream and everybody got soaked, paddling and throwing stones. We continued on and drove through the Shah’s wildlife park, very interesting although we didn’t see any big animals. We stopped at a ford and Graham and Ian took some photos – got another soaking.
We were travelling in front and looking for a spot to stop for a cuppa, then realised the others were not in sight. The roads were really bad now, no tarmac just loose gravel on hard stony tracks across the road. Really chucks everything about. But if you speed up a bit we seem to glide over them and it gets smoother. The Yorks lads caught up with us – they’d broken a fan belt and had to replace it. We had a cuppa by a stream and everybody got soaked, paddling and throwing stones. We continued on and drove through the Shah’s wildlife park, very interesting although we didn’t see any big animals. We stopped at a ford and Graham and Ian took some photos – got another soaking.
After an hour of travelling we were out of the wildlife park and on a sandy, dusty plain. Workmen were building a new road but it was nowhere near completion and we were on the old track. Dust getting everywhere and the stuff in the back is covered in a layers of it. It’s caked thick on the hood and has given us a new colour.
The ‘Radwell‘ must have been working – we’ve lost no water at all. The Land Rover’s going OK and if the road gets no worse we should be all right. At 1800 we pulled off the road on a rise to pitch camp for the night. None of us are recognisable due to a covering of dust. Had a good stew with potatoes and onions.
Wednesday 11th June Distance travelled 186 miles. (Map 14)
Woke at 0630 to another sunny day and had coffee before we moved off at 0730. We reached Bojnord and bought petrol, food, refilled water carriers and had a welcome wash. Had breakfast of yogurt and bread plus a ‘coke’.
Roads still bad – very dusty and deep ruts and holes everywhere. At 1200 we stopped for a cuppa. While stopped we met an American writer and photographer in an unusual wagon. He had it specially built in Germany. The big Mercedes chassis cost £5000 alone, it was fortified like a tank. He showed us around inside. He had all sorts of gadgets, two bunks, table, fridge and a toilet. Had a good chat and collected some tips from him about Afghanistan and India.
Woke at 0630 to another sunny day and had coffee before we moved off at 0730. We reached Bojnord and bought petrol, food, refilled water carriers and had a welcome wash. Had breakfast of yogurt and bread plus a ‘coke’.
Roads still bad – very dusty and deep ruts and holes everywhere. At 1200 we stopped for a cuppa. While stopped we met an American writer and photographer in an unusual wagon. He had it specially built in Germany. The big Mercedes chassis cost £5000 alone, it was fortified like a tank. He showed us around inside. He had all sorts of gadgets, two bunks, table, fridge and a toilet. Had a good chat and collected some tips from him about Afghanistan and India.
Restarted and after an hour finally reached tarmac road again at Quchan. This continued all the way to Mashhad – we decided to camp just outside of Mashhad as the Yorkshire lads had to get Afghan visas there. We pulled of the road at 1630 and made camp by a stream, or rather a drainage ditch.
Had a good tea of potatoes, onions and stew and the inevitable cuppa. Had a big bonfire which seemed to raise everybody’s spirits for a while. The Yorks lads ended up in an argument, they each had special jobs to do – Graham and Lufus were the cooks, Ian and Bob pitched the tent. They took it turns to wash up, etc. They all started moaning to each other about the lack of work everybody else had been doing.
We just sat back and let them get on with it, glad that we never seem to quarrel, luckily everyone just mucks in with everything.
Had a good tea of potatoes, onions and stew and the inevitable cuppa. Had a big bonfire which seemed to raise everybody’s spirits for a while. The Yorks lads ended up in an argument, they each had special jobs to do – Graham and Lufus were the cooks, Ian and Bob pitched the tent. They took it turns to wash up, etc. They all started moaning to each other about the lack of work everybody else had been doing.
We just sat back and let them get on with it, glad that we never seem to quarrel, luckily everyone just mucks in with everything.
Thursday 12th June Distance travelled 115 miles. (Map 15)
Woke up at 0630 – sunny again. Fred and Sleepy got tea in bed but were soon up when they tasted it. Still I’m getting better at cooking. All had a wash and shave.
The Yorks lads seemed to have settled their differences of last night and were ready for the road soon after us. Mashhad only 8 miles away. The others have to get their visas and we have to see if we can get some spare core plugs and heater hose. It looks like we won’t need them but best to make sure. We found the Afghan embassy all right and the lads have to wait till 1200 to get their visas. We got our spares without much trouble. Mashhad is a clean town, all the side streets are paved but a bit narrow.
While we were there the Yorks lads got their exhaust welded up at a garage – it had been blowing badly. We returned to the Afghan embassy to get the visas and met up with our two Dutch friends from the Turkish border and had a quick chat. At 1300 we moved off – very hot but we’re all accustomed to it now. Still on the tarmac.
Stopped under a partially destroyed bridge for a cuppa at Fariman. Got back on the road and no tarmac to be seen, back to sand and gravel again. At 1630 we stopped at a ford and soaked our feet for a while, again we had lost the boys in the LWB. We decided on another cuppa but before we could set up the stove they arrived. They’d had another puncture – their fourth to date. We never got the cuppa and set off again.
We pulled off the road at 1730 beside some enormous piles of shale stones – used on all the new roads. We were still stuck on the old road – bad corrugations and dusty. We had a good meal of steak and kidney pies, beans, peas and potatoes followed by a cuppa and bread and jam.
We then had a good laugh at Bob, Lufus and Ian who were climbing the shale piles and sliding back down. Bob managed to rip the backside out of his shorts, which bought amusement to all but him. Ian, always very careful in everything he did, tried to descend with out sliding and he failed too.
We’re only 30 miles from the border and are longing for the good roads of Afghanistan we’ve been hearing about.
Woke up at 0630 – sunny again. Fred and Sleepy got tea in bed but were soon up when they tasted it. Still I’m getting better at cooking. All had a wash and shave.
The Yorks lads seemed to have settled their differences of last night and were ready for the road soon after us. Mashhad only 8 miles away. The others have to get their visas and we have to see if we can get some spare core plugs and heater hose. It looks like we won’t need them but best to make sure. We found the Afghan embassy all right and the lads have to wait till 1200 to get their visas. We got our spares without much trouble. Mashhad is a clean town, all the side streets are paved but a bit narrow.
While we were there the Yorks lads got their exhaust welded up at a garage – it had been blowing badly. We returned to the Afghan embassy to get the visas and met up with our two Dutch friends from the Turkish border and had a quick chat. At 1300 we moved off – very hot but we’re all accustomed to it now. Still on the tarmac.
Stopped under a partially destroyed bridge for a cuppa at Fariman. Got back on the road and no tarmac to be seen, back to sand and gravel again. At 1630 we stopped at a ford and soaked our feet for a while, again we had lost the boys in the LWB. We decided on another cuppa but before we could set up the stove they arrived. They’d had another puncture – their fourth to date. We never got the cuppa and set off again.
We pulled off the road at 1730 beside some enormous piles of shale stones – used on all the new roads. We were still stuck on the old road – bad corrugations and dusty. We had a good meal of steak and kidney pies, beans, peas and potatoes followed by a cuppa and bread and jam.
We then had a good laugh at Bob, Lufus and Ian who were climbing the shale piles and sliding back down. Bob managed to rip the backside out of his shorts, which bought amusement to all but him. Ian, always very careful in everything he did, tried to descend with out sliding and he failed too.
We’re only 30 miles from the border and are longing for the good roads of Afghanistan we’ve been hearing about.