Afghanistan
Friday 13th June Distance travelled 110 miles. (Map 15)
Woke early after a not too good night’s sleep. Sleepy especially had a bad night, and he slept half the night in the Land Rover. The ground was very hard and stony. We set off for the Afghan border about 0730 and after more bad roads and a few border towns we made it. We reached the first police post at 1100 and our starter motor jammed. After a push it started OK and we found beautiful tarmac for seven miles of no-mans land to the Afghan border post – very hot and steamy.
It was a broken down looking place with plenty of flies and little else. By 1200 we had got through the customs, forms galore to fill in. We crossed the road to the police department and found the chap had gone for lunch – back at 1500. We had no alternative but to wait.
Woke early after a not too good night’s sleep. Sleepy especially had a bad night, and he slept half the night in the Land Rover. The ground was very hard and stony. We set off for the Afghan border about 0730 and after more bad roads and a few border towns we made it. We reached the first police post at 1100 and our starter motor jammed. After a push it started OK and we found beautiful tarmac for seven miles of no-mans land to the Afghan border post – very hot and steamy.
It was a broken down looking place with plenty of flies and little else. By 1200 we had got through the customs, forms galore to fill in. We crossed the road to the police department and found the chap had gone for lunch – back at 1500. We had no alternative but to wait.
The Afghan transit visa we got in London restricted us to one week in the country. I guess not too many people get these nowadays.
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The entry and exit passport stamps for Afghanistan. Can't decipher which is which, but I love the fluorish of the signatures.
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Had a few sandwiches and a good wash. Got chatting to two Germans in a Volkswagen. They’d been to Aussie and back and were returning there. They were both miners, one of them a red hair and beard and a barrel chest – great chap. We couldn’t change any money yet as it was a Moslem Sunday and the banks were shut. The border post didn’t look to have a bank anyway. Finally got through the border after a further delay and got back on the road at 1600. Surprised to come upon our first toll gate at 1730 and then realised we had no money. Luckily we met the Germans there again, they lent us some. We promised to pay them back in Kabul.
Moved on to find a campsite for the night. On a sandy plain stretching far into the distance we couldn’t find any shelter at all. We came upon a dry river bed and decided to kip there. It wasn’t very deep but it was a bit of protection against the swirling wind on the plain. We had trouble setting up the tent in the wind and finally abandoned it and decided to sleep in the open. The other lads had a much larger tent and were almost blown away so they joined us. We had a good tea and bedded down. We spent the evening pointing out the shooting stars and trying to find the North Star – never found it in the end.
Moved on to find a campsite for the night. On a sandy plain stretching far into the distance we couldn’t find any shelter at all. We came upon a dry river bed and decided to kip there. It wasn’t very deep but it was a bit of protection against the swirling wind on the plain. We had trouble setting up the tent in the wind and finally abandoned it and decided to sleep in the open. The other lads had a much larger tent and were almost blown away so they joined us. We had a good tea and bedded down. We spent the evening pointing out the shooting stars and trying to find the North Star – never found it in the end.
Saturday 14th June Distance travelled 139 miles. (Map16)
Woke to a reviving cuppa at 0630 after a good night’s sleep. We were ready to go at 0730 but had to wait an hour for the other guys to pack up. Just before we moved off an Austin Champ pulled up and about a dozen people piled out of the back. Their condenser had packed up and wouldn’t start. They’d just come back from Nepal and some from Ceylon, Fred chatted to a hippy couple from London and they told him about India. They got the Champ going and we left them.
Arrived in Herat and spent the morning there. We changed some money at the bank. Took us an hour – the place is crazy – ended up in a dingy outhouse – where they kept all the money! We had a meal at a hotel – eggs, bread and butter, jam, yogurt, tea and sweet lemonade – the lot for 80 Afghanis – about 8/- (and that was for all of us). We met a couple of chaps from Rotterdam also on their way to Aussie – but they had no transport. We spent the morning looking at shops and buying some food. They’ve got some beautiful furs here. Pity we can’t afford to buy any.
Woke to a reviving cuppa at 0630 after a good night’s sleep. We were ready to go at 0730 but had to wait an hour for the other guys to pack up. Just before we moved off an Austin Champ pulled up and about a dozen people piled out of the back. Their condenser had packed up and wouldn’t start. They’d just come back from Nepal and some from Ceylon, Fred chatted to a hippy couple from London and they told him about India. They got the Champ going and we left them.
Arrived in Herat and spent the morning there. We changed some money at the bank. Took us an hour – the place is crazy – ended up in a dingy outhouse – where they kept all the money! We had a meal at a hotel – eggs, bread and butter, jam, yogurt, tea and sweet lemonade – the lot for 80 Afghanis – about 8/- (and that was for all of us). We met a couple of chaps from Rotterdam also on their way to Aussie – but they had no transport. We spent the morning looking at shops and buying some food. They’ve got some beautiful furs here. Pity we can’t afford to buy any.
Herat street 01 - The horse rickshaws are called "Tonga's" and what's that on the windscreen? "Baggies" supporters even here?
Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Herat street 02 - the change in colour on the road is due to the efforts of the drain cleaners. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Drain cleaner 01 - we were obviously preventing him from working. The drains collected rubbish and were used also as toilets. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
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Drain cleaner 02 - He soon got back into the swing of things. There was a special aroma about the place. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
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On the way out of Herat we lost the other Land Rover but caught up with them a few miles further on. They were parked by a stream and were paddling. We joined them and were so glad to see clear water again, we all took our clothes off and lay down in it. It was real heaven and we’re glad nobody happened to pass by. Graham took some more photos and we returned to the road.
We stopped for a brew-up a few miles further on and stayed for two because the bathe had exhausted us. Restarted at 1600. For the next two hours we travelled through desert-like conditions, sand everywhere, with rocky mountains to both sides of the road and a hot dry wind blowing. It was cooler with the windows and vents closed! Not a lot of oncoming traffic and at one point we were driving side by side on the concrete road. Lufus somehow got himself onto the Yorks lads bonnet and was enticing us to do the same but it didn’t look too safe, even with nothing in sight ahead.
The Russian built concrete road south of Herat. Stretching legs and giving the Land Rovers a spell. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
It ain't 'arf hot, mom....Lufus and Dave on high. Ian, Bob, yours truly and Fred trying not to put our feet on road.
I refuse to make comment on Bob's choice of attire, I think I had a pair too!
Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
We were looking for a suitable spot to bed down for the night when in the distance, like a mirage, a high-rise hotel appeared of all things! We’d heard stories about this place but never thought it would be anything like this. We could see it fully five miles away. We approached it as it was getting dark. It had every facility you could wish for, even a swimming pool. It was hard to understand that there was nothing else here but desert. Felt like paradise.
We were welcomed by the hotel manager, who said we could camp next to the hotel for 20 Afghanis each (about 2/-). We had a meal there of meat, rice, potatoes, bread and butter and a pot of tea which cost us 2/- total for all of us! The hotel is big enough for 100 guests but there’s no one here at the moment.
The Russians built it probably as a military ‘hostel’. The road from the Russian border to Herat and on to Kandahar were Russian built, 12 inch thick concrete, good enough for tanks we’d heard......
We didn’t bother to pitch the tent and slept under the stars again.
We were welcomed by the hotel manager, who said we could camp next to the hotel for 20 Afghanis each (about 2/-). We had a meal there of meat, rice, potatoes, bread and butter and a pot of tea which cost us 2/- total for all of us! The hotel is big enough for 100 guests but there’s no one here at the moment.
The Russians built it probably as a military ‘hostel’. The road from the Russian border to Herat and on to Kandahar were Russian built, 12 inch thick concrete, good enough for tanks we’d heard......
We didn’t bother to pitch the tent and slept under the stars again.
Mirage in the desert - the Farahrod Hotel circa 1974. It looks as deserted as the day we were there. “Image courtesy of dandjribbans 2010”
Mirage in the Desert - newly renovated. An American serviceman on Tour of Duty in 2008 captured this shot amongst others and because of emailing restrictions resorted to making old US style postcards, as he did as a kid, to send them home. This one came with the comment - In the current environment the rates have become quite reasonable..Nice one K. Image courtesy of khslocum.com
Sunday 15th June Distance travelled 167 miles. (Map 16)
Woke early at 0630 and had breakfast in the hotel. We then all went for a swim in the pool. Great feeling to be in the middle of nowhere swimming about. Had a good shower and then cleaned out and repacked the back of the Land Rover. Got rid of all the dust we had accumulated in Iran.
We set off about 1100 – back to the desert, sand, rocks and swirling, hot wind. After stopping to cool the engines, we reached Dilaram at 1350 and parked under a bridge down by what was left of a large river. It was now only 40ft. wide by 3ft. deep but it suited us. We lay back in it and relaxed for a while. Had a few cuppa’s and did some washing, which dried in no time.
On exploring upstream Bob found a man-made dam and behind it a perfect swimming pool, in some places 12ft. deep. Spent most of the afternoon in it. Fred and Graham tried to catch some small crabs with no luck. We eventually moved on at 1730 and we continued travelling until dark – much cooler. At 2015 we pulled off the road and camped under a bridge in a dry river bed. I had been feeling ill since leaving Dilaram – had been sick a few times. A couple of Entero-Vioforms helped a little and I went to bed early.
Woke early at 0630 and had breakfast in the hotel. We then all went for a swim in the pool. Great feeling to be in the middle of nowhere swimming about. Had a good shower and then cleaned out and repacked the back of the Land Rover. Got rid of all the dust we had accumulated in Iran.
We set off about 1100 – back to the desert, sand, rocks and swirling, hot wind. After stopping to cool the engines, we reached Dilaram at 1350 and parked under a bridge down by what was left of a large river. It was now only 40ft. wide by 3ft. deep but it suited us. We lay back in it and relaxed for a while. Had a few cuppa’s and did some washing, which dried in no time.
On exploring upstream Bob found a man-made dam and behind it a perfect swimming pool, in some places 12ft. deep. Spent most of the afternoon in it. Fred and Graham tried to catch some small crabs with no luck. We eventually moved on at 1730 and we continued travelling until dark – much cooler. At 2015 we pulled off the road and camped under a bridge in a dry river bed. I had been feeling ill since leaving Dilaram – had been sick a few times. A couple of Entero-Vioforms helped a little and I went to bed early.
Monday 16th June Distance travelled 295 miles. (Map 16)
Woke up early at 0430 but it all seems in vain. The original idea of getting up early was so that we could travel until the sun got too hot and then rest in shade through the heat of the day. But the Yorks lads cook themselves a big breakfast, and by the time they’re ready to move out the sun is blaring down.
On the road by 0700 and reached Kandahar at 0800. We decide to have some breaky there and parked at the ‘Kandahar Hotel’. Very cheap 2/8 for eggs, bread, butter, jam and pot of tea. At 0940 we left Kandahar after stocking up with bread and cucumbers and found out that while we were parked at the hotel somebody had ‘nicked’ the Union Jack we had stuck on the front wing.
At 1130 we stopped at a road toll and had some iced drinks. We’re now on the American built roads – very smooth tarmac. While here little boys came up to us trying to sell us hashish. Nobody took any and we soon left. At 1300 we pulled off the road under another bridge with a dried up riverbed. We had a few cuppa’s and then all had a nap. Got back underway as the heat of the day started to leave us, and we decided to drive into the night a bit.
After dark we stopped for petrol at a small station (the only one for 70 miles) and we think we got ‘done’ for a few gallons of fuel but couldn’t be sure. No electric pumps here, the guy hand cranked the petrol in, and maybe the small hand moved two sections for every revolution of the large hand? Have to watch the attendant’s next time. Shortly after we got off the road for tea of spuds, soup and stew plus that cuppa. We returned to drive for a further two hours before we camped at yet another bridge. We thought we were well away from civilisation but had a shock in the morning.
Woke up early at 0430 but it all seems in vain. The original idea of getting up early was so that we could travel until the sun got too hot and then rest in shade through the heat of the day. But the Yorks lads cook themselves a big breakfast, and by the time they’re ready to move out the sun is blaring down.
On the road by 0700 and reached Kandahar at 0800. We decide to have some breaky there and parked at the ‘Kandahar Hotel’. Very cheap 2/8 for eggs, bread, butter, jam and pot of tea. At 0940 we left Kandahar after stocking up with bread and cucumbers and found out that while we were parked at the hotel somebody had ‘nicked’ the Union Jack we had stuck on the front wing.
At 1130 we stopped at a road toll and had some iced drinks. We’re now on the American built roads – very smooth tarmac. While here little boys came up to us trying to sell us hashish. Nobody took any and we soon left. At 1300 we pulled off the road under another bridge with a dried up riverbed. We had a few cuppa’s and then all had a nap. Got back underway as the heat of the day started to leave us, and we decided to drive into the night a bit.
After dark we stopped for petrol at a small station (the only one for 70 miles) and we think we got ‘done’ for a few gallons of fuel but couldn’t be sure. No electric pumps here, the guy hand cranked the petrol in, and maybe the small hand moved two sections for every revolution of the large hand? Have to watch the attendant’s next time. Shortly after we got off the road for tea of spuds, soup and stew plus that cuppa. We returned to drive for a further two hours before we camped at yet another bridge. We thought we were well away from civilisation but had a shock in the morning.
Tuesday 17th June Distance travelled 133 miles. (Map 16)
Awoke at 0700 to find a crowd of locals lined on the bridge above us, giving us a good look over. Staring back didn’t make any difference so we got moving quickly. By the time we were ready to roll there must have been 50 of all different ages. Still I suppose we did look a bit strange. We hadn’t pitched the tents, just laid them over us, and then again Fred did look a sight in his pyjamas! And so apparently did Lufus..
Awoke at 0700 to find a crowd of locals lined on the bridge above us, giving us a good look over. Staring back didn’t make any difference so we got moving quickly. By the time we were ready to roll there must have been 50 of all different ages. Still I suppose we did look a bit strange. We hadn’t pitched the tents, just laid them over us, and then again Fred did look a sight in his pyjamas! And so apparently did Lufus..
Sorry Lufus, but we couldn't pixel you out. With no tents pitched last night we were all a bit exposed.....Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
We made good time on the road and arrived at Kabul at 11.30 and made straight for the Khyber Restaurant. So many people we had talked to on the way across had mentioned this place, but we were still shocked with the sight of it. It was just like that hotel in the desert – beyond our wildest dreams. I must admit that we all made pigs of ourselves.
A clean modern self-service and/or waiter service restaurant with cheap food and anything you wanted. We decided on meat goulash with rice, salad, apricot pie and a glorious strawberry flan! - Scrumpsious (well that’s how it sounds – you try and spell it).
We met the two German fellas from the Afghani border post there and repaid them the money they had lent to us. They were trying to sell their Volkswagen Dormobile but were not having much luck. They were contemplating going back to Kandahar to sell it. We hear a lot of people drive the London – Kathmandu hippie trail only to find that they can’t sell the vehicle at the end of it without copping big tax payments. Make’s sense I suppose, when you enter the country with the vehicle, you don’t get out without it or a good reason why.
Afghanistan isn’t so strict but of course the locals or whoever is looking to buy aren’t stupid. The sellers are on a hiding to nothing as they’re desperate to get rid of them. And there were quite a few outside the Khyber Restaurant with ‘for sale’ signs.
A clean modern self-service and/or waiter service restaurant with cheap food and anything you wanted. We decided on meat goulash with rice, salad, apricot pie and a glorious strawberry flan! - Scrumpsious (well that’s how it sounds – you try and spell it).
We met the two German fellas from the Afghani border post there and repaid them the money they had lent to us. They were trying to sell their Volkswagen Dormobile but were not having much luck. They were contemplating going back to Kandahar to sell it. We hear a lot of people drive the London – Kathmandu hippie trail only to find that they can’t sell the vehicle at the end of it without copping big tax payments. Make’s sense I suppose, when you enter the country with the vehicle, you don’t get out without it or a good reason why.
Afghanistan isn’t so strict but of course the locals or whoever is looking to buy aren’t stupid. The sellers are on a hiding to nothing as they’re desperate to get rid of them. And there were quite a few outside the Khyber Restaurant with ‘for sale’ signs.
The Restaurant Khyber in Pashtunistan Square, Kabul. Image courtesy of new-xtreme-of-life.blogspot.com
We had to get road passes for Pakistan so we went to the Consulate only to find they had closed for the day. So we decided to camp at Kabul and leave tomorrow. During the afternoon Graham located the trouble with our misfiring engine – distributor was loose in its bracket and the timing was suffering. With me watching on avidly he re-timed it and it ran much better.
We had heard about a campsite in the hills north of Kabul and decided to make for it. We got lost, mainly due to my incorrect map reading, but I found the mistake and we got there OK in the end. Called the Qargha Dam and Reservoir, it had a great swimming area next to the campsite. After the big meal at lunchtime in Kabul we made do with beans and coffee. We pitched the tent for the first time in four days as the dam was 7000 ft. above sea level and much cooler than we’d been used to.
We had heard about a campsite in the hills north of Kabul and decided to make for it. We got lost, mainly due to my incorrect map reading, but I found the mistake and we got there OK in the end. Called the Qargha Dam and Reservoir, it had a great swimming area next to the campsite. After the big meal at lunchtime in Kabul we made do with beans and coffee. We pitched the tent for the first time in four days as the dam was 7000 ft. above sea level and much cooler than we’d been used to.
Wednesday 18th June Distance travelled 82 miles. (Map 17)
Woke up at 0700 after a very good night’s sleep. Fred made coffee while I checked the sump and gearbox nuts and Sleepy tightened the rear wheel bearings, which had been seeping a small amount of oil. Although cooler here we were still able to get around in shorts and little else. We all went for a dip in the reservoir and a sunbake.
Woke up at 0700 after a very good night’s sleep. Fred made coffee while I checked the sump and gearbox nuts and Sleepy tightened the rear wheel bearings, which had been seeping a small amount of oil. Although cooler here we were still able to get around in shorts and little else. We all went for a dip in the reservoir and a sunbake.
Lufus relaxing on the Qargha Dam wall with the Hindu Kush Mountain range in the background. These mountains head westward to meet up with the Himalayas. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
Finally left for the Pakistan Consulate at 0930. The chap there said we could get the passes at the border, so after filling our water containers at the American base we made for the Khyber Restaurant again. Another big lunch virtually the same as yesterday. Removed the hot spot adjustment from the exhaust as we couldn’t adjust it at all.
A chap in the street asked us if we wanted to change some money and we did. We got some Indian and Pakistan rupees at twice the official rate. All honest and above board I assure you. It’s legal here, but the money changers still keep a watch out for the police.
Got back on the move again after repacking the back of the Land Rover. Shortly after leaving Kabul we made a very steep descent through the Kabul Pass and the view was breathtaking. Oh, how we envied the other chaps with their cameras.
A chap in the street asked us if we wanted to change some money and we did. We got some Indian and Pakistan rupees at twice the official rate. All honest and above board I assure you. It’s legal here, but the money changers still keep a watch out for the police.
Got back on the move again after repacking the back of the Land Rover. Shortly after leaving Kabul we made a very steep descent through the Kabul Pass and the view was breathtaking. Oh, how we envied the other chaps with their cameras.
Kabul Pass 1969-01. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
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Kabul Pass 1969-02. Image courtesy of Graham Akroyd.
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Lower end of the Kabul Pass with the fertile use of the Kabul River just before Jalalabad. Would be close to where we camped. Unusually shaped depositional and erosional sediment terraces formed when glaciers retreated eons ago.
Image courtesy of Bruce Thomas.
We drove till dark down a gorge following a raging torrent but not seeing much of it. Camped in the trees at the riverside and had a meal of beans and stew and two cuppa’s. Pitched the tent again but lay on top of our sleeping bags.